I put off booking my first trip to Iceland for years. Not because I didn’t want to go – I really, really, really wanted to go. But I couldn’t decide whether I wanted to visit in the summer or the winter. Now that I have been to Iceland, I realise this is entirely the wrong question… the answer is firmly both! You know how there are some places that just capture your heart on first visit? That is Iceland for me. I fell utterly, head over heels in love with this wonderful country at the northern tip of Europe and am definitely going to return again and again.
It is not hard to see why the land of fire and ice is one of the most sought after destinations in the world. Dramatic volcanos, moon-like landscapes, hot springs and lava fields: Iceland is a genuine adventure. And there are few places better for a road trip – the infrastructure is fantastic and the driving (mostly) straightforward.
We travelled in mid-February, and the days were long enough to do the itinerary below safely. However, we spent quite a lot of time driving between places as we knew we wanted to visit Vatnajokull, and if I could do it again, I would add another day to make it slightly more leisurely.
Don’t Miss
Walking on a Glacier – glacial sculptures, deep crevasses, ice caves and natural ice luges on the largest ice cap in Europe – and also its fastest melting. Learn about how it was formed and what we need to do to protect this magnificent giant.
Traditional Icelandic Food – although it unfairly gets a bad rep on the internet, we found the plentiful seafood and delicious cured cuisines of Iceland fantastic. Fermented shark might be taking it a bit far though…
The view from the top of the Hallgrimskirkja – the world’s northernmost capital city really surprised us, and there is no better view than from the top of the 74.5m tower of Iceland’s famous Artic cathedral.
Cliffs of Dyrhólaey – staring out onto the wild seas of the Atlantic, with nothing between me and Antarctica, and a mighty storm brewing, was a truly humbling and memorable experience.
Need To Know
Language Icelandic
Currency Icelandic Krona (you’ll be wanting lots…)
Nearest Airport Keflavik International (KEF)
Getting Around Car or Tour. Reykjavik is 45 mins from the airport. Regular low-cost buses will take you right into the centre, or you can hire a car and take the easy drive along R41.
Staying in Touch Pre-paid SIM cards are sold in the large convenience store just past baggage reclaim. Siminn offers the best coverage across Iceland and the most data.
Weather Midnight Sun in summer months with clear days; short daylight hours in winter, with high winds and snow common. Shoulder months often wet. Temperature moderated year round by the mild Gulf Stream.
GETTING AROUND
There are loads of tour companies in Iceland that will follow similar itineraries to ours, but I would recommend hiring a car for the freedom it offers. If you are going in the winter, hire a 4×4. Yes, it is expensive. Yes, you will want to believe the bits of the internet that lull you into thinking that a smaller car is better for the windy roads so you can go for the cheaper option. Ignore them. Our little car might have been fine for the Golden Circle (all rental cars in Iceland have winter tyres fitted) but going further afield we had a very scary drive through a complete white out in a snow storm and definitely regretted our choice. We also weren’t able to make it to a hike I had been desperate to do as the ground clearance was too low to get through the snow to the car park. Learn from our mistakes!
COSTS
Iceland deservedly has a reputation for being extremely expensive. We decided to self-cater on several nights, and bought booze in the duty free airport supermarket on arrival. Yep, that’s right. It’s so expensive they have a duty-free supermarket in the baggage hall! Be prepared to hand over all of your krona if you want to stay in hotels and eat out. I can’t even bring myself to tell you the price of the glass of wine we had in the Harpa…
Top Tips
It is definitely worth packing some ice grips (I love my Yaktraks). You will thank me when you confidently stride past the tourists slipping around on an icy path!
Keep an eye on road conditions via the excellent IRCA. Sunglasses are also recommended in all seasons as the sun so often sits low to the horizon.
Download an Aurora forecast to chase the aurora borealis – more commonly known as the northern lights. These solar flares set the sky alight with dancing green and white lights. A great deal of luck is involved in seeing them, but dark, clear skies between November and February offer the best chances.
Stop in at a petrol station for a cheaper taste of an Icelandic delicacy… the hot dog! Order “ein með öllu” (one with everything) and it will come topped with both raw and crispy fried onions, ketchup, and a sauce made with mayonnaise, capers, mustard, and herbs.
DAY 1
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REYKJANES PENINSULA
(1-2 hours driving)
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The so-called “toe” of Iceland, most tourists only venture south for a trip to the Blue Lagoon. But there is so much more to see, and is an easy day trip if you are staying in Reykjavik and don’t have time to get out to see the wild Icelandic landscapes further afield.
WHAT TO DO
The Gunnuhver Geothermal Area – bubbling mud pools, boiling water and a distinctly eggy smell of sulphur! This active geothermal area offers a fascinating glimpse of Iceland’s unique geology. The site is apparently named after a ghost who frightened local residents until a priest managed to trap her in the pool some 400 years ago. I cannot claim to be a geologist, but I am told the groundwater here is unusual as it is 100% seawater… I do know that the multihued minerals create some beautiful colours! Just be sure to stay on the board walks, and admire the amazing geysers and pools from a safe distance.
The Bridge Between Two Continents – the boundary between the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates sits right under the Reykjanes Peninsula and the ever-enterprising Icelanders have built a bridge across one of the fissures close to Sandvík. A bit gimmicky, but a fun stop if you are visiting the peninsula.
Lighthouses – due to the treacherous sailing conditions around the Reykjanes peninsula, and Iceland’s rich fishing history, there are no less than thirteen lighthouses around the peninsula! We choose the Garðskagi lighthouses. The older – and smaller – of the two was once considered one of the best lighthouses in Iceland because its low height meant the Icelandic mist was not a problem. The newer lighthouse was built in 1944, and came second in a survey of the Icelandic population’s favourite lighthouses… Yep, Iceland had a national survey of its most popular lighthouses. How can you not fall in love with this wonderful, quirky country?!
Blue Lagoon – needs no introduction as it has rapidly become a must do on all Icelandic itineraries. Was it touristy? Yes. Was it expensive? Absolutely. Still worth it? TOTALLY!! In a country of spectacular and varied naturally occurring colours, the blue water is actually caused by water from the nearby geothermal plant. It gets very busy, so try and go early in the day and definitely book in advance. It is also very near the airport, so you can go straight from the airport or on your way back. We chose to go before we got on our flight home, and it was a lovely way to end the trip in style. There are multiple buses that will deliver you to and from the airport.
Moss Lava Fields – much of the Reykjanes peninsula is covered by the golden brown and rich green moss-covered lava fields of the Reykjanes Geopark, a UNESCO-recognised area of international geological significance. When admiring these wonderful views, please do so from the paths and roads. Moss can be very easily damaged, and it would be heart breaking if the increase in tourism led to the irreparable damage of these wonderful natural sites.
WHERE TO EAT
Vtinn – serving huge platters of the freshest seafood available, this lovely restaurant in Sandgeroi feels a bit like being in a traditional fish house in this windswept fishing town. Definitely not to be missed.
Lava – part of the Blue Lagoon complex. I loved the high-ceilinged dining hall, but on a busy day it might feel a bit like a canteen. The two-course meal was really fantastic – I loved how carefully they had created a locally inspired menu.
WHERE TO SLEEP
iStay Cottages – we spent our first night in Iceland in these lovely little cabins near the windswept fishing village of Sandgeroi. They are set on the edge of the small fishing port of Sandgeroi, and despite being walking distance to a supermarket, the cabins were designed in such a way that the views were uninterrupted.
The Retreat – the Blue Lagoon’s hotel offers a more upmarket stay, with sleek rooms and floor to ceiling windows offering gorgeous views. The price of your room also includes access to the Blue Lagoon before other visitors – a real perk!
DAY 2
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HIGHWAY 1 TO HOF
(5 hours driving)
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When planning our trip, we decided to get the long drive over and done with early on, so that we could enjoy meandering back to Reykjavik over the next few days. As it turned out, there was a major snowstorm and we spent a tense few hours crawling along in total whiteout, wildly cheering any vaguely smaller car coming the other way as it gave us the briefest glimmer of hope we might make it alive! The Husband deserves a medal for his heroic driving that day! As ever in Iceland, it wouldn’t hurt to plan some flexibility into your itinerary to allow for weather-induced changes!
We split up the main sights along Highway 1 between this drive, and our return on Days 3 and 4.
WHAT TO DO
Seljalandsfoss – in the summer you can walk right underneath Seljalandsfoss – but it would be suicidal in winter so we missed out! The main waterfall is impressively dramatic, but be sure to keep walking along the path to also find the second waterfall hidden through a crack in the rocks about 500 metres from the main falls. This was the only place in Iceland we had to pay for parking. Card payment was possible.
Skogafoss – even in the middle of winter this is one of the most impressive waterfalls I have seen. You are able to get right up to the base of it, really bringing into focus the power of the water crashing over the top. Just off to the right of the waterfall is a metal staircase which leads up to the top. I would defintiely recommend doing this as you can peer down over the edge of the falls and walk along the edge of the river that feeds the waterfall.
Seljavallalaug – the short walk and a quick dip in Iceland’s oldest swimming pool is well worth the short detour whilst visiting Skogafoss and Seljalandsfoss. Built in 1929 to teach local children to swim, it is now maintained by volunteers. Certainly, beats my swimming lessons in the local council pool!
It was a little tricky to find – turn off Highway 1, and onto R242. You need to follow signs to Seljavellir along an unpaved road to a small parking spot. From here it is an easy 15-20 minute walk to the pool. The short walk showcases many of Iceland’s best features so is a great choice if you don’t have time to do any of the longer distance hikes. There is a (very…) primitive changing room, but no bathrooms.
Icelandic Horses
Brought to Iceland by the Vikings in the 9th and 10th centuries, they are famous for their unusual gait – the tolt – a smooth, running walk. Small and tough, they perfectly suited to Iceland’s rough conditions. They have heavy double layer coats to protect them from the harsh climate, and remarkably, their wind pipe is narrower than other horses to protect their lungs from freezing in wintertime.
To guarantee breed purity, Icelandic law prevents horses from being imported into the country and exported animals are not allowed to return. Any riding equipment brought to Iceland must be new or vigorously disinfected. As a result, there has been no cross breeding in over 1000 years, making the Icelandic Horse the purest breed in the world.
Most importantly… despite their diminutive size (usually only around 12-14 hands) they are definitely horses and not ponies!
Dyrhólaey Peninsula – 120-metre promenade, looking out over the famous black beach and Iceland’s dramatic south coast. The cliffs are a popular puffin watching spot, but Dyrholaey’s most recognisable sight is the massive rock arch, the result of hundreds of years of erosion. The arch is so large that a pilot flew through it in 1993!
The weather on the cliffs was ferocious (a taste of what was to come…!), but staring out onto the violent seas of the Atlantic, knowing there was nothing between me and Antarctica, with a mighty storm brewing, was a truly humbling experience. It was hard not to feel in complete awe of the power of mother nature. It was also utterly freezing and I had to waddle about wearing every item of clothing I had packed!
The cliffs are a little off the beaten track, and most visitors miss them on their way to the more famous town of Vik and the black beach. That might be why you don’t often hear people talking about it on their lists of “Icelandic must do’s”, but I thought they were well worth a visit.
Reynisfjara Beach – the famous black sands and fascinating basalt columns of this beach near the small town of Vik i Myrdal are unsurprisingly southern Iceland’s most visited site. Early morning is quieter (as with everywhere in Iceland), but the winter light at dusk was so beautiful it made up for the crowds of people spilling off the tour buses!
At the end of the beach, you will see the Reynisdrangar sea stacks. These pillars are said to be trolls caught outside at sunrise and frozen into rock. Iceland is full of the most wonderful folklore and legends – all of which just add to the magic of the landscape.
Be very careful near the water’s edge – rogue waves have swept a number of tourists to their deaths in recent years.
Vik I Myrdal – this little seafront village sits in the shadow of the Mýrdalsjökull glacier (go on, try and say it…) and is the closest settlement to Reynisfjara beach and the Dyrhólaey Peninsula. The Vikurkirkja, a small wooden church built in 1929, sits on a hill above the village. There is a small carpark and on a sunny day, if you walk a short way up the path behind the church you will be rewarded with the most superb views of the church and the sea stacks.
WHERE TO EAT
Accommodation and dining suggestions for Vik are listed below, under Day 3.
Otto Matur & Drykkur – in the small fishing village of Hofn, this intimate little restaurant is a real gem. The smoked cod was excellent. It is quite a bit further up the east coast than the rest of this itinerary, so perhaps one to save for a longer trip to Iceland.
Foss Hotel Glacier Lagoon – tasty two course dinners are served daily in the glass walled restaurant of this hotel.
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon Café – no fuss sandwiches, soups, and cakes. Sit outside and watch the icebergs.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Foss Hotel Glacier Lagoon – I am a complete sucker for a design hotel, and as soon as we started planning I knew I wanted to stay here. The rooms were comfortable, with lovely views out over the moss fields.
Hotel Skaftafell – clean comfortable rooms right at the entrance to the National Park. The glacier is only a half hour walk from the back of the hotel. Good breakfasts.
Adventure Hotel Hof – cosy, modern rooms, with great views out to the mountains behind. Cabins also available. Excellent addition of a sauna!
DAY 3
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VATNAJOKULL AND VIK
(2 hours driving)
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A very early start on Day 3 was worth it for the thing we had been most looking forward to – a tour of the mighty Vatnajokull Glacier. We got right up onto the glacier, and explored the inside of the ice caves that form on the glacier. It was a truly memorable experience and I would absolutely recommend splurging on a tour to learn about this incredible ecosystem.
WHAT TO DO
Vatnajokull Glacier – the largest glacier in Europe, coverings 8100 square kilometres and around 30 outlet glaciers. You get a good view of the glacier from the Ring Road, but walking around inside a naturally occurring ice cave on a glacier in Iceland was definitely a once in a lifetime experience. Sliding down a naturally formed ice luge on top of Europe’s largest glacier was also a highlight!
There are lots of tour companies in Iceland, and given the excellent customer service we found across the island, I am sure they will all be great. But from personal experience I can absolutely recommend Local Guide for your visit to Vatnajokull. They are a small family run guiding company that has been operating in South East Iceland since 1991.
We were picked up by our guide in an ENORMOUS 4×4 from the car park at Joksularon, in a group of about ten people. Once up onto the glacier, we were provided with helmets and crampons. Our guide was super knowledgeable, and clearly passionate about protection this fragile landscape.
We did the half day Ice Cave tour (19,000 ISK), but if we had had more time (stupid annual leave allowances) I would have loved to do the full day tour that gets you to some of the more remote parts of the glacier.
Jokulsarlon and Diamond Beach – sparkling icebergs float in the lagoon right by the carpark where you meet the glacier tour guides. The ice sculptures washed up on the black sand beach are really impressive, and we were lucky enough to see a group of seals swimming around the ghostly-blue icebergs.
After dragging ourselves away from the mesmerising ice, we headed back west on Highway 1. It was a totally different experience in glorious sunshine, and a surprise to find the amazing landscapes that had been all around us the day before! We made it to the small town of Vik in time to visit the black sand beach in glowing afternoon sun.
WHERE TO EAT
Suður-Vík – hearty Icelandic menu. Prices are definitely Icelandic, but the food is excellent and the atmosphere welcoming. Artic char is one of the must-tries whilst in Iceland, and this was the best we had.
Drangar – traditional Icelandic meals with a modern twist. Located in the gorgeous Hotel Kria. Guests of the hotel get a discount.
We found the Kjarval Supermarket in Vik a good place to stock up (averted our tonic water emergency) and surprisingly reasonably priced.
WHERE TO SLEEP
We spent the night in a cosy AirBnB just outside of Vik, desperately hoping to see the ellusive northern lights. Unfortunately, there was too much cloud cover, but the setting would have been perfect if luck had been on our side. In the summer the little decked area would be a lovely place to sit in the evening sun.
Hotel Via I Myrdal – great location close to the black sand beach. Breakfast is very good, and rooms are comfortable and light-filled. Showers are excellent!
Hotel Kria – gorgeous design hotel with sleek, minimalist rooms. Comfortable beds and mountain views from the bedrooms.
Guesthouse Carina – spacious, light filled rooms with shared bathrooms in this charming guesthouse.
DAY 4
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VIK TO REYKJAVIK
(2 and a half hours driving)
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Our final day in Iceland was dedicated to exploring the capital city, Reykjavik. Initially, we didn’t plan to spend much time here, instead preferring the wild terrain outside the city, but a change of plan due to heavy snow on our last day left us with an afternoon to explore. I am so glad we did – this charming and appropriately quirky city is the perfect capital for this wonderful country.
WHAT TO DO
The Harpa – I absolutely fell in love with Iceland’s modern concert hall. Opened in 2011, the Harpa has rapidly become one of Reyjavik’s top attractions. It is made up of three-dimensional geometric panels, designed to imitate Iceland’s basalt rocks, and the shimmering glass seemed to be permanently changing in the winter light. Even if you don’t have time for a concert, it is worth a wandering around just to see the building itself. There is also a bar, restaurant and a gift shop. I would love to come back to see a concert here under the midnight sun.
Hallgrímskirkja – visiting the almost austere interior of this Lutheran church is free, and well worth a peek just to see the vast 5275-pipe organ. The unusual design was created by Icelandic state architect Guðjón Samúelsson in the 1940s. Apparently, it was inspired by the rock formations caused by cooled lava but as construction took 38 years, Samúelsson never saw it finished. The Hallgrímskirkja also provides the best view of Reykjavik from the top of its 74.5m tower. It is not cheap to go up to the top – 1000 ISK – but well worth it to look out over the colourful rooftops of downtown Reykjavik and out to the Atlantic beyond. On a clear day you can see the snow-capped mountains across the bay.
We spotted a free car park next to the Church – could be a great place to leave your car if you wanted to explore the city on foot.
One Day in Reykjavik
Start your morning with coffee and pastries at one of Reykjavik’s many cafes, before wandering through the streets of Old Reykavik. Admire the immense Hallgrimskirkja, and the views from its tower, before hunting out some Icelandic street art. Spend the afternoon at the National Museum, before heading over the Sun Voyager and the Harpa at sunset. After a tasty meal in one of Reykjavik’s many great restaurants, be sure to join the locals for a beer or three in one of the city’s latest drinking spots.
The Sun Voyager – designed by Jón Gunnar Árnason, the Sun Voyager – or Sólfar in Icelandic – is an ode to sun and light. It also looks very like a Viking longboat! If you can, try and visit just before sunset or early morning when the pastel colours of the sky glint off the stainless steel and polished granite. On a clear day you will even get a backdrop of Mount Esja across the bay.
Old Reykjavik – the heart of the capital, Old Reykjavik is a cluster of colourful historic buildings between the harbour and Lake Tjörnin. The small neighbourhood originally developed in the eighteenth century around the town’s wool producing workshops.
WHERE TO EAT
Top tip – if you want to save some money, I recommend heading out for lunch rather than dinner. Many of restaurants offer lunch deals for half the price of dinner. Apotek is my top pick – a two course lunch in this famous restaurant comes to 4,890 ISK whilst dinner will set you back 8,990 ISK.
Messinn offers the best seafood in Reykjavik, served by friendly staff. Try one of the sizzling pan fries!
Saegreifinn serves the most famous lobster soup in Iceland. Laid back and homely, this green shack right on the harbour and is one of Reykjavik’s oldest restaurants. It is also one of the most affordable options.
Not exactly gourmet, but the waffle stand outside the Hallgrímskirkja was one of the highlights of my trip…! You must also check out Baejarins Beztu Pylsur, Reykjavik’s famous hot dog stands which have been going since 1937. A meal for around 350–380 ISK is pretty hard to beat in Iceland!
Café culture is booming in Reykavik and you will not struggle to find an excellent cup of artisan coffee. We really liked Reykjavik Roasters and the adorable Stofan Café.
Reykjavik is awash with great pubs and bars, with pretty much every street corner offering a watering hole. We liked the relaxed atmosphere and tasty bar snacks at Micro Bar. Boutique brews are the selling point here, with 10 local draughts on tap from Iceland’s best micro breweries.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Icelandic Air Hotel Marina – part of a popular chain, this large hotel offers stylish rooms, many with excellent sea views.
Apotek – really gorgeous renovated former pharmacy right in the centre of Old Reykjavik. Rooms are contemporary, and a great tapas restaurant on the ground floor.
22 Hill Hotel – comfortable but somewhat soulless rooms in this friendly hotel. The communal areas are smarter, and it is very easy walking distance to the Hallgrímskirkja.
DAY 5
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BLUE LAGOON
(half an hour driving)
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On our last morning in Iceland we treated ourselves to a soak in the Blue Lagoon and a delicious lunch at its Lava restaurant. Despite being very touristy, it was a really fun way to end our trip and soak our road trip-weary muscles before hopping on a flight home.
I really didn’t want to say goodbye to Iceland and even before we got on our plane I was researching returning in the summer! I would love to come back to see the north of the country, and most definitely the fjords of the west. And I would definitely like to do a multiday horse trek on the famous Icelandic horses and hunt out all the best wild swimming spots. Oh, and to walk the Landmannalaugar and go whale watching. And…
If Iceland isn’t on the cards for you for a while, have a look at my adventure series of you are looking for more inspiration.
Tom and Charlotte says
We recently used Faraway Dispatches’s Iceland Archives to help plan our Babymoon to Iceland. It was such a huge help- both the ‘insights’ and the ‘itinerary’ really helped us to plan an unforgettable trip, which we are still buzzing about. We even messaged them directly, and they kindly provided further advice about arranging a glacier hike for myself and my wife, who is pregnant. Thank you so much!
@farawaydispatches says
So pleased you had a wonderful trip and that I could help!