MY FAVOURITE WALKS AND WILD SWIMS IN THE LAKE DISTRICT
Writing this post in sunny Muscat is really making me pine for the Lake District! As glorious as Arabia is, it is hard not to miss the lush green countryside of the UK as we head into the sweltering desert summer. And there are few places greener and lusher than the Lake District!
The Lake District is England’s largest National Park, covering 2,362 sq km or 912 sq miles. There are over 200 fells (the name given to the mountains and hills of the Lakes), and it is home to both England’s deepest lake (Wastwater at 74 metres) and its longest (Windermere at 10.5 miles). It is therefore a walker and swimmers paradise!
These are a few of my favourite walks, and favourite swimming spots, in the Lake District. It is worth noting that there are multiple routes across the fells – and most have easier and harder routes. These are my favourite approaches, but with a bit of research you can easily find one tailored to what you want. AllTrails, WalkLakes and official Lake District website are all great resources for this.
Be sure to check out my other Lake District guides for more ideas to help create your perfect itinerary – there are ideas on all the best places to visit, what to do on a rainy day and where to find all the best things to eat!
LAKE DISTRICT WALKING ROUTES
HELM CRAG
This is one of my all time favourite easy walks in the Lake District, and should absolutely be on your list. It is a straightforward hike – the path is well marked and stone steps take you up the steepest section. And yet the views from the top are incredible – particularly if you make it up for sunset as Wainwright suggests.
Helm Crag is also often known as the Lion and the Lamb – in reference to the two rocky outcrops at its summit.
You can start in the centre of Grasmere, or park in the free carpark just before the Lancrigg Hotel.
RYDAL WATER CIRCUIT
WHERE GRASMERE
DISTANCE 3.1 MILES/5KM
ASCENT 95M
DIFFICULTY EASY
PARKING WHITE MOSS CAR PARK (£) OR PELTER BRIDGE CAR PARK (£)
We were really surprised how much we enjoyed this flat walk. We only did it to get a bit of fresh air before meeting friends for a pub lunch, but both agreed we would love to come back and add on a longer walk up to Loughrigg Fell above the lake. It is unusual to find a flat walk with such pretty views in the Lakes, but this one really delivers. The large Rydal Cave is also accessible from this route.
Most of the walk is accessible for pushchairs and more rugged wheelchairs – and the bit that isn’t can be easily avoided. The section up to the Cave is over rocky ground. There is a little bit of road walking if you do the full loop, but unless you are visiting in the peak of the summer, they are not too busy. You could also add a stop in charming Grasmere for some tea and cake if you wanted!
Who was Alfred Wainwright?
Probably the single most famous figure in Lake District fell walking! His famous, and beautifully illustrated, Pictorial Guides to the Lakes were first published in the mid-1950s. The guides are handwritten and punctuated by Wainwright’s own sketches of the landscape he documented. His descriptions are often very amusing, and really bring the fells of the Lake District to life.
Originally from Lancashire, his “love affair with the Lake District” began after a walking holiday in 1930. In 1941 he moved to Kendal, and started to compile his wonderful guides in 1952. Over the next fourteen years he wrote seven volumes, covering 214 fells. They are now collectively known as “The Wainwrights”, and keen walkers will set out to tick off – or “bag” – as many as they can.
Wainwright also published guides to the Pennine Way, and plotted a new route, the Coast to Coast walk from Cumbria to Yorkshire.
TARN HOWS CIRCULAR
This easy walk around a lake is one of the Lake District’s classics. The path is suitable for pushchairs and more rugged wheelchairs.
If you want to add a bit of ascent you can go up the side trail to Black Fell (250m) – probably the easiest Wainwright to bag. It is also pretty quiet, and you will often have the trail to yourself. Despite its small stature, the views out over Great Langdale are fantastic.
HAYSTACKS
“Haystacks stands unabashed and unashamed in the midst of a circle of much loftier fells, like a shaggy terrier in the company of foxhounds… One can forget even a raging toothache on Haystacks”
Alfred Wainwright
Wainwright’s favourite walk is quite an accolade – and this is the route that gets it. His ashes were scattered in the Tarn after his death. If you can only do one walk in the Lakes, this is probably it. The views are beautiful and it is not too difficult.
A narrow, steep-ish track leads up the side of the mountain until you reach a rocky scramble to the summit. The way up is not too difficult, and manageable with children. The descent is a little trickier, but nothing technical. It can get quite slippery in rain, so best to do this on a drier day if the Lakes’ notoriously soggy weather permits.
The advantage of walking to and from the village is that a pub lunch after your exertions is almost compulsory.
OLD MAN OF CONISTON
WHERE CONISTON
DISTANCE 6.2 MILES/12.6KM
ASCENT 818M
DIFFICULTY MODERATE TO CHALLENGING
PARKING 1KM OUT OF CONISTON ON WALNA SCAR ROAD (FREE) (COORDINATES)
As you can see from the rather fabulous description below, Wainwright didn’t really rate this route around the Old Man of Coniston. However, I shall have to – very respectfully – disagree.
The linear, straight-up-and-down route is a rightly popular, but this loop less so. You are therefore likely to find the first stretch up The Old Man is busy, but most of the rest of the route to yourself. I think that coming back down via Goat’s Water (perhaps stopping for a swim – see below!) is a lovely add on.
“Courting couples, troops of Boy Scouts, babies and grandmothers”
Alfred Wainwright
The path up to the summit is unrelentingly steep, but the path is easy to follow and offers amazing views. There is a short scramble over some rocks just before the summit.
This walk also offers an interesting glimpse into the Lakes industrial past, with disused mining equipment and cables either side on the route up. Whilst this is in part why Wainwright disliked this walk, I think it showcases a side to the Lakes few are familiar with.
You can walk up from Coniston village, but it adds a steep and pretty uninteresting extra 0.6miles/1km onto the walk. I therefore definitely recommend starting at the (free!! Almost unheard of for Lake District parking!) car park on Walna Scar Road. But be sure to head into Coniston after your hike, for a hot Cumberland sausage bap at the Bluebird Cafe on Coniston Water.
HELLVELYN
WHERE GLENRIDDING
DISTANCE 8.7 MILES/14.1KM
ASCENT 900M
DIFFICULTY CHALLENGING
PARKING GLENRIDDING CAR PARK (£)
There are multiple routes up England’s third highest peak, but the scramble along Striding Edge is the most famous and my favourite. I prefer to head up to the flat topped summit of Helvellyn via Striding Edge, and back down via the easier Swirral Edge. On a clear day the views are unbeatable.
There is narrow path just below the ridge if you want to avoid the most exposed bits of the scramble, so it is a good route to try out scrambling if you aren’t sure whether you will like it.
The last time we did Helvellyn was the middle of the summer and it was really crowded. Given how narrow the ridge is, I couldn’t help feeling that this somewhat took away from the enjoyment of the walk. At times I could imagine what it must feel like to queue for the summit of Everest… So I would really recommend trying to do this outside of peak months, or very early in the morning.
CRINKLE CRAGS
WHERE GREAT LANGDALE
DISTANCE 7.9 MILES/12.7KM
ASCENT 853M
DIFFICULTY CHALLENGING
PARKING NATIONAL TRUST CARPARK AT OLD DUNGEON GHYLL HOTEL (£)
Whilst I might disagree with Wainwright on The Old Man of Coniston, I am totally in agreement with him on Crinkle Crags! Known to The Husband as “the Crinklies”, this is one of my absolute favourite walks in the Lakes. It is really five small summits, and requires some (non-technical) scrambling. Your legs will definitely know you have done this one – the path is mostly steep uphill, and steep downhill! Given the scrambling, it is one to save for a clearer day.
“Crinkle Crags is much too good to be missed. For the mountaineer who prefers his mountains rough, who likes to see steep craggy slopes towering before him into the sky… this is a climb deserving of high priority.”
Alfred Wainwright
I should also address the infamous “Bad Step” of the second Crinkle. There are such tales of doom on the internet about this short scramble, that it puts some off this fantastic walk. In reality, it really isn’t that bad – and I am not always the greatest fan of scrambling. But I genuinely thought it was totally doable, and is only a few metres. Just be sure to approach it from the south – coming down would be much tougher. There is an alternative path around the left hand side if you don’t want to do the scramble.
A popular, if slightly brutal, add on is Bowfell. We didn’t have time the last time we did Crinkle Crags, but are keen to get back to do it soon. This adds another 902m of ascent.
BLENCATHRA
WHERE THRELKELD
DISTANCE 5.2 MILES/8.4KM
ASCENT 692M
DIFFICULTY CHALLENGING
PARKING FREE PARKING NEAR SCALES FARM COUNTRY GUEST HOUSE
One of the most famous fells – or collection of fells – in the Lakes, which offers great views over Derwentwater. It has six separate fell tops, of which the highest is the Hallsfell Top at 868m. Blencathra is the name Wainwright gave it – on maps it is called Saddleback.
This route takes you along one of the most famous scrambles in the Lakes – Sharp Edge. Sharp Edge is exposed and technical in places, so it is only suitable for confident scramblers. It is much harder than Striding Edge on Helvellyn. And it is definitely a summer route – in winter it requires more serious kit, and on a slippery day can be treacherous.
You do not have to go up Sharp Edge to summit Blencathra – there are other, gentler, routes you can take.
The parking fills up quickly so plan to do this walk in the morning.
LAKE DISTRICT SWIMMING SPOTS
I really love wild swimming – I am not sure there is anything more exhilarating than a dip in cold water in the middle of nowhere. And the Lake District, unsurprisingly, has many great places to dip! These are my favourites.
If you plan to swim, even on a summer’s day, make sure that you dry off properly when you get out and have something warm to put on afterwards. Also, if you want to swim at multiple sites it is essential to rinse and dry off both yourself and your kit between locations to ensure you do not cross-contaminate these delicate habitats.
Galleny Force – two pools next to a waterfall in Borrowdale. It can get quite busy on summer weekends. Follow the signs to Stonethewaite campsite from Borrowdale village, and the pools are only a short fifteen minute walk up the valley track.
Black Moss Pot – slightly further upstream than Galleny Force, in the summer braver people than me jump from the high sides. The water is crystal clear so be sure to bring googles. It is also deeper though, so much chillier!
Tongue Pot and the Esk Valley – this is my favourite swimming spot in the Lakes. There are a series of pools but Tongue Pot is the best for swimming. Walk up from Hardknott Pass – the path follows the river. Tongue Pot is just before an old packhorse bridge, where the River Esk and Lingcove Beck meet.
Rydal Water – such a pretty spot for a dip at one of the smallest lakes. At the southern end there is a rope swing if you are looking for a more dramatic entrance to the water. Park at White Moss or Pelter Bridge Car Parks – it is less than a mile walk to the water. This is the most accessible place on this list, and suitable for pushchairs and wheelchairs.
Goat’s Water – this is a great place to cool off after a hike up to the summit of the Old Man of Coniston. The water is beautifully clear, and fairly shallow around the edges. Last time I swam here it was a gorgeous sunny day, but as this is a less popular route, we had it to ourselves. Low Water on the way up the other side of the Old Man is also a nice place for a dip on a hot summer’s day, but much busier.
WHAT TO PACK
“There’s no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing”
Alfred Wainwright
As much as I tease The Husband about his obsession for outdoor kit, I must admit that having the right gear can make a huge difference to your enjoyment of a day on the hills. This is especially true in the Lake District when the weather can change so quickly. I would strongly encourage you to pack for all season when heading out!
Don’t worry if you forget anything, there are many excellent outdoors shops across the Lakes, often with fantastic discounts.
- A MAP! We are so lucky in the UK to have the truly fantastic Ordinance Survey maps. We always take a paper map as a backup but in recent years have become total converts to the OS App (be sure to charge your phone and download the section of map you need before you leave!). OS Explorer Maps OL4, OL5, OL6 and OL7 cover the Lakes. You can buy them as a set online from Ordinance Survey, or in any of the outdoor shops in the Lakes.
- Rucksack – I absolutely love my Osprey Tempest 20. It is the perfect size for a day hike, and the ability to store walking poles is a great feature. I also love that Osprey has designed bag specifically to fit women, as it makes them so much more comfortable.
- Boots – take advantage of the fabulous trails and hikes – but don’t be that person that has to be rescued from the mountain in flip flops… sturdy walking boots that will keep you dry in the rain and mud are essential for a Lakes trip.
- Walking poles – when The Husband first bought these for me, I was sceptical. But they really are fantastic. Studies show that walking poles can reduce compressive force on knees by as much as 25 percent. You don’t need to spend lots of money, but I would recommend getting telescopic poles so that you can more easily store them on the go.
- Waterproof layer – the North Western corner of England is also its wettest. Even on a sunny day the weather can change quickly. I have the Rab Muztag GTX and it is the best waterproof I have ever owned. Fairly breathable, very hardwearing, hot pink and slim fit – perfect! I have worn it in heavy rain (in the Lakes!) and it kept me dry. Rab is definitely pricier than others options, but are so long lasting that I think they are worth the money. I also love my Rab Microlight Alpine down jacket, and would probably buy their entire range if I could afford to!
- Warmer layer or fleece – the North Face Glacier fleeces are great for walking as they are slim enough to layer, but not too sweaty. In colder weather, I am also a fan of merino base layers (especially the great Icebreaker tops), and for icy days I couldn’t do without the confidence that my Yaktrax offer.
- First Aid Kit – although hopefully you will have a safe day out on the hills, accidents can happen and I always carry a first aid kit just in case. You can easily make up your own from a local pharmacy, or alternatively the Lifesystems First Aid kit is a great option for a ready made option. Make sure you also have a fully charged headtorch just in case you get caught out later than planned.
- Gloves and Hat – even in the summer temperatures can vary quite dramatically between the bottom of the valley and the peak of the fells. Last time we were in the Lakes I bought a pair of Rab Women’s Power Stretch gloves – I have been really impressed with the warmth they offer for how slim profile they are.
- Snacks, lunch and water – stock up on Grasmere gingerbread, or even some Kendal mint cake if you are after authenticity! A pack of fizzy Haribo for morale when it starts to rain is of course mandatory.
- Swimming Costume – from lounging around your spa hotel’s pool after a long walk, to jumping off rocks into an icy mountain stream, you will want your swimwear! I am a huge fan of Batoko’s recycled plastic range – just look at those patterns!
I really hope this has inspired you to get your walking boots out and consider planning a trip to the UK’s largest National Park. Be sure to check out my other Lake District guides for more ideas to help create your perfect itinerary – there are ideas on all the best places to visit, what to do on a rainy day and where to find all the best things to eat! If you are looking for more ideas for escaping into the great outdoors, check out my other adventure guides.
