The UK is lucky to have fifteen amazing National Parks – and the Lake District National Park is the largest of them!
Given its size, the different areas of the Lake District have quite distinct characters. The eastern side – especially around Windermere – is the most accessible, with the infrastructure to match. By contrast, the westerly side of the Lakes is much more wild and remote. I’d recommend spending time in both during your visit, to get a sense for the different areas of the Park.
Home to England’s highest peak and deepest lake, it is a hiker and wild swimmer’s paradise, but it is also one of those places that offers a bit of everything, no matter what you are after. Looking for a few days of total relaxation, or perhaps several days of outdoors adventure, or maybe even a romantic hideaway with Michelin-starred restaurants… the Lake District has it all!
Don’t Miss
Fell Walking – you can’t come to the Lake District and not experience the joys of the fells! The Rydal Water loop is the best accessible walk; the gorgeous views from The Old Man of Coniston are my top pick for a moderately difficult day; and Crinkle Crags and Bowfell make for a wonderfully challenging day out.
Eat! – a hearty pub lunch, a Michelin starred tasting menu or afternoon tea – the Lake District is as much a treat for your stomach as it is for your eyes!
Ullswater – all the drama of Windermere but fewer people. Take the steamer across the lake for a relaxing way to get out onto the water.
Seek out Peter Rabbit – Beatrix Potter was integral in the establishment of the Lake District National, and its scenery was the inspiration for her famous tales. Visit her cherished home Hill Top, to find out more about this conservationist ahead of her time.
Need to Know
Language English
Currency Pounds Sterling
Nearest Airport Manchester or Glasgow
Banks/ATMs Most places accept MasterCard and Visa. ATMs in all the main towns, and in the larger supermarkets.
Getting Around Walk the fells to really get the best of the Lakes! Car offers flexibility; bus or train to main population centres.
Staying Connected Prepaid SIMs are available widely across the UK but mobile coverage can be very patchy.
Weather Unpredictable – all four seasons in one day is to be expected! Snow in the winter can close roads and make some walks very technical.
GETTING THERE
West Coast mainline trains connect Oxenholme, Penrith and Carlisle with London and Glasgow, and there is a direct train from Manchester to Windermere. The nearest airports are Glasgow – a two hour drive – and Manchester – a one and a half hour drive.
GETTING AROUND
A car gives you the flexibility to explore at your own pace and makes getting to the more remote areas easier. But in the busier months, especially the summer, roads can get incredibly busy and you can spend ages looking for somewhere to park if you don’t arrive early.
If you are planning to visit a few of the historic attractions and get out onto the fells whilst in the Lake District it may be more economical to join the National Trust, rather than pay for separate tickets. Individual membership is £72 per year, or £120 per year for a couple. Membership gives free parking at National Trust carparks (of which there are many), free entry to National Trust properties and discounted entry on a number of other attractions.
Local buses and trains serve the most popular areas well, and you can find a map of all the options here. If you want to explore more locally, Keswick Bikes and Lake District Bikes have good reputations for bicycle hire.
Alternatively, Mountain Goat offer excellent tours all across the Lake District.
THE LAKES!
Let’s get the pedantic pub quiz fact over first… there is actually only one Lake in the Lake District: Lake Bassenthwaite. All of the other “lakes” are called Waters, Meres or Tarns. Nope, I don’t know the difference either.
Here are some of the most visited, and a few of my favourites:
Windermere – the most famous body of water in the Lake District and England’s longest lake (10.5 miles). Mecca for water sports enthusiasts, and steamers and ferries offer lake cruises throughout the day. There is a wide range of relatively easy, low-level walks in the surrounding foothills. One of the best views across Windermere is to be found from Orrest Head.
Ullswater – just as beautiful as its more well-known cousin Windermere, but often less busy even in the peak of the summer. It has an unusual formation, with three distinct bends and is surrounded by mountain scenery to the south, and more gentle hills to the north. A trip in the steam driven, heritage Ullswater Steamers is a popular – and relaxing – day trip.
Coniston Water – this five-mile-long ribbon of water might just sneak in as my favourite! The picturesque setting was the inspiration for Arthur Ransome’s children’s book, Swallows and Amazons. The lake has also become famous as the setting for Sir Donald Campbell’s attempt to break the world speed record. His final record attempt led to his death in 1967 when his boat, the Bluebird, flipped over whilst travelling at a speed of over 320mph.
Derwentwater – the atmosphere around this tranquil 3 mile long stretch of water changes dramatically with the weather. Just outside the walking centre of Keswick, it is one of the most developed lakes in the National Park, with extensive water sports infrastructure. The Keswick Launches will ferry you across the Lake, and wooden rowing boats can be hired. A loop of the lake is 8 miles, and follows the shore for much of the route. The small shingle beaches offer multiple opportunities for a wild swim or picnic.
Wastwater – England’s deepest lake at 74m is dramatically beautiful, and is home to some of the wildest scenery in the Lake District. The outline of the three peaks at the eastern end of the lake (Lingmell, Scafell Pike and Great Gable) was selected as the symbol of the Lake District National Park and has regularly been voted the best view in England. The eastern end can get particularly popular as large numbers of walkers arrive to conquer England’s highest peak, Scafell Pike.
Rydal Water – tranquil lakeside walks around one of the smallest lakes in the Lake District. Popular due to its connections to the poet Wordsworth – the loop walk passes two of his homes, Dove Cottage and Rydal Mount – as well as the dramatic Rydal Cave. At the western end of the lake there are steps leading up to ‘Wordsworth’s Seat’, reportedly the poet’s favourite viewpoint.
Blea Tarn – a small, but very picturesque, body of water at the head of the Little Langdale valley, near to the mountain pass into Great Langdale. According to the National Trust, this was an ancient trade route. Blea Tarn is a great spot for those who are not super keen or hardy hill walkers as it offers fairly accessible a taste of the fells. It is also a very popular morning wild swimming spot, as the mist rising over the tarn makes for a very atmospheric setting. Just be aware that the road to Blea Tarn is very narrow, and single track for the most part.
WHAT TO DO
Get out onto The Lakes – in a region so covered in water there are unsurprisingly many ways to get into, onto and across the lakes. At the more sedate end, a trip on the Ullswater steamer (adults £14.80 when booked online) is a lovely way to spend an afternoon. Likewise, in the summer months, The Gondola, a restored Victorian steam-powered yacht, which sails around Coniston Water. Different length tours are available, but I recommend the one and a half hour Full Cruise for a tranquil afternoon learning about the history of the region (adults £23: 10% discount for National Trust members).
Windermere Canoe Kayak are a popular choice if you want to try your hand at paddle boarding, kayaking or canoeing – they also hire out bikes. Prices start at £20 for two hours SUP, or £27 for three hours kayaking. However, Coniston Water is my top pick to hire a kayak if you are looking for somewhere quieter to explore – Joint Adventures offer a half day excursion for £45. If you want something more sedate, you can hire a wooden rowing boat on Grasmere (£15)!
Get out onto the Fells – the Lake District has miles upon miles of England’s best trails, from the hardcore to gentle lakeside strolls. The National Park website has endless suggestions for routes, and I have written a more detailed guide to my favourite routes, but here are a few suggestions for some of my favourites:
- At the easier end, the Blea Tarn trail is only 1.8 miles but offers a gentle taste of the fells (you can make it more challenging by adding on Side Pike), and the circuit of Rydal Water is one of the best accessible routes in the Lake District.
- The short but steep walk up Helm Crag gives amazing views across the Lake District and should be on any first time visitor’s list.
- For the keener walkers, the 6 mile circular route around the Old Man of Coniston is more gentle, but still a wonderful way to experience the wild landscapes of this corner of England.
- The Helvellyn ridge walks offer spectacular views, some scrambling and a great day out. There is an easier short – but steep! – climb up from Thirlmere.
- And for those looking for a more challenging day out Crinkle Crags is one of my absolute favourite walks in the Lakes. It is really five small summits, and requires some (non-technical) scrambling.
- Finally, England’s highest peak, Scarfell Pike, is a tough but rewarding climb.
Chase Waterfalls – it will come as no surprise in this wet corner of Britain that there are some fantastic waterfalls in the Lakes. Near to Ullswater, Aria Force Waterfall is one of the most impressive and most accessible (car parking postcode for your SatNav CA11 0JY). Rydal Falls (LA22 9LW) are just off the A591 between Ambleside and Grasmere, and only a ten minute walk from Rydal Mount, home of the poet William Wordsworth. For something a bit more dramatic, Stanley Ghyll Force (CA19 1TG) looks almost jungle-like in a narrow gorge surrounded by rhododendrons , whilst Scale Force in Buttermere (CA13 9XA) is one of the most impressive for its size – water drops over 50 metres into pools below.
Take A Wild Dip – if you are feeling brave, there are also some wonderful wild swimming spots across the Lakes – check out my detailed guide to wild swimming in the Lake District for more inspiration. My absolute favourite is Tongue Pot in Eskdale, a secluded pool set amongst gorgeous wild landscapes. If you are looking for something more accessible, Black Moss Pot – about half an hour’s walk from Stonethwaite – is super. However, it can get very busy on a summer’s weekend so you might also want to try the nearby Galleny Force.
WHAT TO SEE
Lake District Views – the best way to get glorious views over the Lake District is definitely to hike some of its fells, but if this is not for you there are also a few more sedate options!
- For one of the most well known views of the Lake District, head to Friar’s Crag on the shores of Derwentwater. It is an easy ten minute walk along a (mostly level) footpath from the Derwentwater Foreshore next to the Theatre by the Lake in Keswick.
- The views from the top of the Kirkstone Pass (and the aptly named Struggle Road) are as close as you can get to the wild Lake District countryside without hiking out into the fells! This wonderful road snakes up out of Ambleside towards Patterdale, and there are a few lay-bys to pull into to admire the views. On a sunny summer’s evening there are few drives to match it – and it is made only better by quick stop in the Kirkstone Pass Inn!
- The old stone packhorse Ashness Bridge is one of the most iconic images of the Lake District – and gets the crowds to match! If you continue on slightly further to the Surprise View carpark, there are unbeatable views out over Derwentwater, with views over to Bassenthwaite Lake.
- For easy views over the Park’s only “real” lake, pull into the Noble Knott car park just outside the small village of Braithwaite, outside Keswick. You will get a view across Bassenthwaite, with Skiddaw to your right and England’s only true mountain forest on your left.
Castlerigg Stone Circle – whilst not as famous as Stonehenge, for me, the lack of crowds and wild setting make the prehistoric Castlerigg Stone Circle more dramatic and atmospheric. You can also get right up to the stones to appreciate their size. Visiting is free, but you need to pay to park or can walk there from Keswick in about half an hour along an old railway path.
Find Literary Inspiration – the Lake District has inspired many writers, and has particular connections to the famous English poet William Wordsworth and the beloved author of my childhood, Beatrix Potter. Check out my rainy day guide to the Lake District for more detail on the top Wordsworth and Potter attractions.
Beatrix Potter and Peter Rabbit
Born in London in 1866, Beatrix Potter loved to draw from an early age – especially her pet rabbits. When she was 16 the family took a holiday to the Lake District, and Beatrix’s lifelong love for the countryside and the Lake District was born.
Her first story, The Tale of Peter Rabbit, came from an illustrated letter she wrote for a family friend. After being rejected by multiple publishers, in 1901 she published 250 copies herself for family and friends and it became an instant success. Over her lifetime she wrote and illustrated 28 books, sharing stories of Peter and his mischievous friends. More than 100 million copies of her books have been sold and today, more than two million Beatrix Potter books are sold around the world each year. That is a staggering four books every minute!
Beatrix was a staunch supporter of the National Trust, and on her death in 1943 bequeathed fifteen farms and over four thousand acres to the Trust.
Explore the Historic Villages – although best known for its gorgeous landscapes, the Lake District is also home to some charming Cumbrian towns and villages.
- The old buildings of Grasmere are very photogenic – even more so when set in amongst the peaks and hills around it. Be sure to try some of the famous gingerbread from the Grasmere Gingerbread Shop – it makes a great gift.
- Ambleside offers a great base for exploring the Lakes and is very picturesque. The Bridge House on the northern shore of Windermere is probably the most photographed building in the Lake District!
- One of the prettiest in the Lakes, Hawkshead’s cobbled streets and whitewashed buildings offer tea shops and independent shops galore.
- The bustling market town of Keswick is a mecca for hikers and climbers. If anywhere wants to lay claim to being England’s adventure capital, this is probably it! Keswick offers a wide range of shops and restaurants, and a theatre. It is also home to the world-famous Pencil Museum… Try to visit for the busy Saturday market. The annual Keswick Mountain Festival attracts around 20,000 visitors to enjoy three days of sports, outdoor activities, talks, films and music.
- In the southern Lakes, Kendal has two castles, many shops and cafes, two museums and is only nine miles from Windermere. What more can you want?! You mustn’t miss on out on trying Kendal Mint Cake – it was the original energy bar and fuelled Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hilary up Everest in 1953. Most shops stock it.
WHERE TO EAT
There are simply so many fantastic places to eat and drink in the Lake District that I can’t possibly list them all here – so these are just a few of my top picks. Check out my detailed Foodie’s Guide for all of my favourites!
Lingholm Kitchen – probably the best cake I have ever eaten in my life. Yes, really. The “garden cake” (like carrot cake, but so much more) is genuinely so good that we planned our minimoon to come back to the Lakes purely for another slice! Their lunches are also excellent – and huge. Complete with oodles of Beatrix Potter history – I don’t think I could love this place more!
L’Enclume – the two Michelin stars are well deserved this wonderful restaurant. Two locally sourced tasting menus are offered – one of lunch and one for dinner – with optional wine parings. Expensive but I promise this will be one of the most memorable things you do in the Lake District – the dishes are almost a work of art. Booking is essential.
The Drunken Duck – the menu is more inventive than many pubs in the area and the food is always excellent. They also serve their own-brew ales. On the pricier side, so one for a nice lunch.
Traveller’s Rest – we stopped at this 16thC coaching inn on a whim one wet evening and were completely blown away by how fantastic the food here was. We had the menu from the specials board and it was one of the best pub meals I have ever eaten. Try and sit in the booths by the open fire, rather than in the main restaurant room.
Daisy’s Café – breakfast in Ambleside at this little café is not to be missed. The homemade soup is always a warming and affordable lunch option.
Bluebird Café – you absolutely must stop here for a Cumberland sausage sandwich after a walk up the Old Man of Coniston. Great location right on the water. The menu is fairly extensive and in the summer the outside seating is right on the shingle beach.
The Little Ice Cream Shop – award winning ice cream parlour in Hawkshead for huge ice creams! Also serves dairy free and vegan ice creams.
Angel Lane Chippie – a locals’ favourite, this fish and chip shop in Penrith is nothing fancy but simply downright tasty!
Jumble Room – this colourful and quirky Grasmere eatery serves Asian inspired dishes in a relaxed setting.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Lakeland Retreats – I’d highly recommend this family run business offering cottages of all sizes right across the Lake District. Their customer service is excellent, and the cottages are lovely. Last time we were in the Lakes we stayed at the adorable Hayloft in Outgate.
Lancrigg Hotel and Kitchen – one of the loveliest hotels I have stayed at! The owners are friendly and knowledgeable, and have successfully created a very welcoming atmosphere. Fantastic location, and beautifully restored. The decor nails the relaxed country house vibe, and the food is excellent. A real gem.
Haweswater Hotel – beautifully restored art deco hotel on the shore of the Haweswater Reservoir. Lovely location, and seriously good food. Try and get a room at the front as these have been recently restored to their Art Deco glory!
Forest Side Hotel – bedrooms are a little over done (too much brocade for me!), but comfortable and the views onto the fells are lovely. The communal rooms are beautifully done – more minimalist but with warmth and character. But the real reason to come is the food… just wow!
The Crown Inn Pooley Bridge – great location for exploring the northern lakes, the rooms here are reasonably priced and super comfortable. The terrace is a lovely place to stop for an afternoon rest whether you are staying or not.
Another Place – if you are looking to treat yourself this is the place. Rooms are large, and the country house vibe makes it feel more like a retreat than a hotel. The spa and swimming pool are lovely after a day battling the summer crowds.
The Yan at Broadrayne – the smart rooms in this whitewashed farmhouse are a bit stark compared to some of the more country-style options, but they are very comfortable and the bathrooms excellent. The bistro serves tasty European dishes.
Be sure to check out my other Lake District guides for more ideas to help create your perfect itinerary – there are ideas on where to hike, what to do on a rainy day and where to find all the best things to eat!
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