BURGH ISLAND HOTEL, DEVON REVIEW: ART DECO LUXURY ON AGATHA CHRISTIE’S ISLAND

If you’re planning a stay at Burgh Island Hoel in Devon, prepare for one of England’s most unforgettable hotel experiences.

Perched on its own tidal island off the South Devon coast, this iconic Art Deco retreat is famous for its sea tractor, glamorous 1930s interiors, and deep connection to Agatha Christie, who wrote Evil Under the Sun and And Then There Were None here.

Ever since my first encounter with the Queen of Crime, I have had a full-blown Agatha Christie obsession. As a young girl, her extensive works sparked my love of literature, and I have read all 76 of her books many, many times over. A stay on Burgh Island had been on my bucket list for years, not only because of its literary history, but because few hotels in Britain promise such a theatrical sense of arrival.

Whether you come for Agatha Christie history, Art Deco interiors, or simply to experience one of the UK’s most unusual luxury hotels, Burgh Island Hotel is genuinely unlike anywhere else.

HOTEL WEBSITE

Agatha Christie and Burgh Island Hotel

“It is peaceful. The sun shines. The sea is blue. But you forget, Miss Brewster, there is evil everywhere under the sun.”

So begins Agatha Christie’s Evil Under the Sun, set on a small tidal island off the coast of South Devon, where Hercule Poirot attempts to enjoy a peaceful seaside holiday before, inevitably, becoming entangled in murder.

The novel was heavily inspired by Burgh Island Hotel, where Agatha Christie regularly stayed and wrote during the 1930s. In addition to Evil Under the Sun, Christie also wrote parts of her chilling masterpiece And Then There Were None here. The island later appeared on screen in the 2001 adaptation of Evil Under the Sun, starring David Suchet as Poirot.

Christie’s connection to the island remains central to the hotel’s identity today. Her former writing retreat has since been transformed into an exclusive suite with panoramic sea views, a private deck, and a lounge, while one of the hotel’s Art Deco rooms is also named in her honour.

During its glamorous interwar heyday, the hotel also attracted guests including Noël Coward and Winston Churchill. Today, Burgh Island Hotel remains one of England’s most distinctive luxury hotels, famed for its 1930s glamour, dramatic tidal setting, and iconic sea tractor crossing.

THE LOCATION

Few hotels in the UK can rival the setting of Burgh Island Hotel. Located just off Bighbury-on-Sea in South Devon, this private tidal island becomes completely cut off from the mainland for much of the day – adding to its extraordinary sense of escape.  

Riding the Burgh Island Sea Tractor

At low tide, it is possible to walk the 250m across the sand directly to the island, but the best way to travel is to take the iconic, 50 year old, hydraulic sea tractor across the causeway. It has been ferrying guests to and fro since 1969, and non-residents can pay £2 for a trip. On windy or stormy days, the hotel’s own Land Rover will instead carry you across the sands. Be sure to pay attention to the time they tell you to arrive – too late and you will be cut off by the tide, unable to access the sparkling white Art Deco hotel sitting tantalisingly out of reach just across the water. 

Exeter Airport is an hour away. Reserved parking for hotel guests at the Bigbury-on-Sea Car Park (TQ7 4AZ). The hotel will also arrange pick ups from Totnes – the closest train station – a 40 minute drive. For a seriously glamorous start to your weekend, the hotel has its own helipad, and they are happy to receive guests arriving by yacht…

THE ROOMS

Built in 1929 by filmmaker Archibald Nettlefold, Burgh Island Hotel is one of Europe’s finest surviving examples of Art Deco architecture. It is a glamorous time capsule of polished wood, sweeping staircases, cocktail bars, and old-world English elegance. It is one of the foremost examples of Art Deco architecture in Europe. And it really does feel like stepping back in time – to a far more glamourous age on the English Riviera. 

There are 25 individually designed rooms and suites at Burgh Island Hotel, plus one private beach house. All rooms are named after famous former occupants, including Agatha Christie, Noel Coward, Amy Johnson and even Christie’s most famous creation, Hercule Poirot. Rooms are all individually designed, but all come with balcony, large bathroom and bespoke Burgh Island toiletries. A welcome glass of champagne, and selection of handmade chocolates, set the tone for your stay. 

With the exception of two rooms, all have enormous rolltop baths instead of showers. If you have read my review of the wonderful Lord Poulett Arms you will know that finding baths to fit The Husband is quite the challenge. Not so at Burgh Island, where even he could only just manage to touch both ends of the bath it was so huge. I could just about do laps.

Don’t expect to find a TV in the room – in keeping with the period of the hotel, time is to be spent relaxing, enjoying the sea views and exploring the island. 

THE EXTRAS 

The vibe on Burgh Island is more country house, rather than hotel. It felt more like we were at a grand house part from a bygone era, rather than paying guests in a commercial hotel. The attention to detail is wonderful, and it is not hard to see why this was the ultimate fashionable English holiday destination in the 1930s. As for the fabulous flamingo wallpaper in the bathrooms, need I say more?!

For the more active, there is a croquet lawn, tennis courts and a sauna. More recently, the hotel has opened a small spa but we did not get the chance to try it out, preferring instead to make the most of the wonderful sunny weather and explore the island on foot. An extensive network of footpaths cover the island, and for the most part are well maintained and only gentle slopes. Nothing too strenuous to interrupt your relaxation!

One of the real highlights of Burgh Island is the wonderful Mermaid Pool. This natural sea water bathing pool was secured in WWII by a sluice gate and is framed by a small sandy beach, complete with striped deck chairs. Just remember your wet suit in the winter months!

There are four dining options on the island itself – a formal affair in the gorgeous Grand Ballroom, more casual seafood dining in The Nettlefold with fabulous coastal views, light bites in the Palm Court, and a relaxed pub vibe at the 14thC Pilchard Inn. 

The formal dinner is taken in the Grand Ballroom, in black tie and evening dress, accompanied by a live pianist. The meal starts with cocktails and champagne in the bar, before you are led through for a truly delicious – and very generously portioned – tasting menu. For me, the beautiful Peacock Bar, sat underneath the stunning stained glass dome of the Palm Court, is the hotel’s top gem. I am an absolute sucker for a Lychee Martini, and the pre-dinner Burgh Island offering most certainly did not disappoint. Likewise, as we were there for a special occasion we decided to splash out and have the wine flight with dinner. It seemed fairly pricey, but the sheer quantity of wine that followed had us wobbling very unsteadily up the stairs to bed with the firm conviction it was excellent value for money! 

Even if you are not staying on the island, I would strongly recommend a visit to the atmospheric Pilchard Inn. It has been serving the smugglers and fishermen working this rugged coastline for over 700 years, making it one of the UK’s oldest pubs. Bar food is served at lunchtime. The tasty crab baguettes are not to be missed, and in winter, cosy up in front of the fire with one of their local brews. 

Staff throughout were very friendly, and from check in to the waiting staff, we found the quality of service to be excellent. 

THE LESS LOVEABLE

There’s no getting around the fact that staying at Burgh Island is a *serious* splurge. Starting at £645 for a dinner, bed and breakfast package, one night here will set you back the same amount as a whole week in many of the world’s loveliest hotels elsewhere. 

Without the dinner, rates start at £495. But I think for the price difference it simply isn’t worth missing out on the full experience. Main meals in The Nettlefold – the only option if you are not dining in the Grand Ballroom – are around £25-£30 per head, so you can quickly spend a similar amount to the full dinner option. Moreover, the experience of getting all dressed up and sitting in the beautiful surrounds of the Ballroom is, to my mind, a central part of the beauty of the place. So I would strongly recommend saving your trip here for a special occasion, and splashing out for the full package. 

Alternatively, it is possible to book afternoon tea in the beautiful Palm Court as a way to sample this wonderful historic hotel on a budget. Be sure to book well in advance. At the other end of the spectrum, the entire hotel can be booked out for weddings and parties – a new one to add to my bucket list! 

So, beyond the fact that I can’t afford to stay here regularly, I can’t think of a single thing I didn’t like or wasn’t impressed by!

Burgh Island Hotel FAQ

Can you walk to Burgh Island? Yes, at low tide via the sand causeway.

How do you reach Burgh Island at high tide? Via the hydraulic sea tractor.

Can non-guests visit Burgh Island Hotel? Yes, for lunch, drinks, afternoon tea or the 14thC Pilchard Inn.

Is Burgh Island worth visiting? For literary history, dramatic scenery and Art Deco glamour – absolutely!

If you are looking for other lovely places to stay, be sure to check out my guide to the best luxury hotels in England. For ideas on how to spend your visit to the British Isles, have a look at my guides to the UK, and browse more literary travel guides in the UK.