In many ways Oxford reminds me of my beloved Edinburgh. It’s compact size, great independent cafes and restaurants, super photogenic architecture, and wonderful countryside right on the doorstep – but it is much quicker to get to from London!
Given its proximity to the capital, Oxford makes for a great day trip from London. But if you have more time to spare, I would really recommend taking a weekend and exploring both Oxford and the beautiful Cotswolds. Check out my guide to the Cotswolds if you are looking for ideas to extend your trip.
GETTING THERE
Direct trains from London Paddington take a mere 52 minutes, or 1 hour 9 minutes from London Marylebone, with both departing roughly every half an hour. Prices vary by time – avoid commuter hours for cheaper trains. It is an easy 5-10 minute walk into the city from the station.
For the cheapest tickets to Oxford – or any train in Europe – I always recommend checking Trainline. I find they tend to have the best prices, and offer a “split ticket” service. This ‘splits’ your train journey into multiple tickets, instead of buying a single ticket to your destination. Bizarrely, if you buy multiple tickets along your trip you can save a lot of money compared to having a single ticket – and all without having to change trains!
Alternatively, the Oxford Tube bus service starts at London Victoria (and also stops at Marble Arch) and takes two hours. Tickets are £9 one way, and £15 return.
GETTING AROUND
On foot, by bike or by punt!
Oxford is a compact city, so is eminently walkable. Oxford is also very bike-friendly, and it is almost an obligatory part of the student experience! Pony Bikes and Donkey Republic operate dock-less bikes. Download and rent directly from their respective apps.
There is an extensive bus network through Oxford to get around if you choose to take public transportation. There are dedicated taxi ranks at Oxford Railway Station, Gloucester Green Coach Station and St Giles’ in the city centre.
Oxford has also several Park & Rides scheme which provide an alternative option for car users – find the sites here.
WHAT TO DO
Visit the Colleges
In total, 38 colleges make up the University of Oxford, each with their own unique architecture and identity. Most are open to visitors and I’d strongly recommend seeing several to get a sense of their different characters. You can find all the details for opening hours and admission prices on the University website – and I strongly recommend booking in advance in the summer months – but a few of my favourites are below. If you want to hear more about student life – as well as the history of the city – this great free walking tour is led by university students.
Christ Church College is perhaps the most famous, and not without reason. If you can only visit one college, this is it. Previous students include 13 British Prime Ministers, Albert Einstein and Lewis Carroll. Fans of Harry Potter will spot many of the films’ locations in these hallowed halls. Entry is £8 in the winter, and £10 in the summer. Monday-Friday: 9am – 5pm. In the summer it is worth booking online to avoid the queues.
Magdalen College (pronounced “mawdlin” if you want to sound suitably in the know) is one of the largest colleges, and even has its own deer park. If you are here on the 1st of May, the Magdalen college choir marks ‘May Day’ by signing Hymnus Eucharisticus from the top of the iconic Magdalen Tower at 6am – a tradition kept since 1515. Students traditionally party all night before gathering at the base of the tower to listen at dawn. Oscar Wilde is perhaps the most famous alumni. Entry is £6. Monday-Sunday: 10am to 7pm (or dusk, whichever is earlier).
Worcester College is less visited than Magdalen or Christ Church, which is surprising as it is free admission! If you are a garden lover this is the college for you, as the walls are awash with beautiful flowers throughout the summer and it has its own tranquil lake. Monday-Sunday: 2pm to 4pm.
Keble College is not often found on lists of the best colleges to visit, as its brick design has always been controversial. It looks not unlike a gingerbread house. So unpopular was the design, the students of St John’s set up a secret society that required you to produce a red brick – pinched from Keble – to gain entry, with the aim of dismantling Keble brick by brick! Entry is free. Monday-Sunday: 2pm to 5pm.
Browse the shelves of the Bodleian
Five buildings make up the second largest library in Britain. Two tours of “The Bod” are available, allowing you to see the beautiful ceilings of the Divinity School and the Duke of Humphrey’s library inside the famous Radcliffe Camera. If you are keen to explore more of Oxford’s literary pedigree, check out my Literary Guide.
Listen to the Choirs
Oxford is a musical city, and enjoying Evensong in one of the college chapels is a magical way to spend an hour. Many of the Oxford college choirs are professional standard, and it is a great way to visit some of the colleges for free, and after the tourists have gone home. Just remember that it is a religious service, and should be respected as such, not just as a tourist activity. Christ Church, Magdalen and New College probably have the most impressive chapels – services are usually around 6pm; just ask the college porter to show you the way from the college gates.
Get Up High
For views over the famous dreaming spires, your two options are climbing Carfax Tower or the University Church of St Mary’s the Virgin’s tower. Although more expensive (£5 a ticket, instead of £3) University Church is my favourite for its early morning views over the Radcliffe Camera and All Souls College. The Church itself is free to enter and has beautiful stained glass windows.
The Bridge of Sighs
Really called the Hertford Bridge, this pretty bridge is always popular with tourists looking for the perfect photo. No visit to Oxford would be complete without your own!
Visit the Museums
For such an intellectual city, it will come as no surprise that Oxford has several excellent exhibition spaces. The Ashmolean is the oldest public museum in Britain, in a beautiful neoclassical building displaying a huge collection of archaeological and art displays. You could easily spend a whole day here, but for a speedier visit top exhibits include the Alfred Jewel, the Messiah Stradivarius, and Guy Fawkes’ lantern. The rooftop restaurant is also a wonderful spot for lunch. Entry is free, daily 10am to 5pm.
My favourite however, is Oxford’s Natural History Museum. Be sure to check out the eerily elegant dinosaur skeleton parade, and the world famous Oxford Dodo. You should also not miss the Pitt Rivers Museum, attached to the back of the Natural History museum. The displays of ethnographic objects are packed in tightly, which only adds to the sense of discovery as you weave amongst the cases. Admission to both is free, daily 10am to 5pm.
WALKS: EXPLORE OXFORD’S GREEN SPACES
Botanic Gardens – the lovely Botanic Gardens run along the river only a few steps from the busy high street. It is the oldest botanic garden in the UK, and is a really lovely place to spend a peaceful afternoon with a picnic. Entry is £5.45, 9am to 5pm daily.
Christ Church Meadow – for something a little less manicured, the Christ Church Meadow is a lovely open space right in the centre of the city. Enclosed by the Cherwell and Thames rivers, if you walk down to the riverside you are almost certain to see one of the University’s many boat crews out practising.
Port Meadow – if you are looking for a longer walk, Port Meadow, to the north west of the city centre, covers 440 acres of grazing land. For some of the year the river floods part of the meadow, attracting flocks of migratory birds. I’d recommend planning your walk across Port Meadow to finish up in the 17th century riverside Trout Inn – a cosy spot by the fire in winter, or take a seat on the terrace in the summer.
Take to the River – not a walk, but a quintessentially Oxford option for enjoying the outdoors. Just like it’s cousin Cambridge, Oxford is famous for its punts – low, flat-bottomed boats pushed along by a large, heavy pole rather like the gondolas in Venice. They are surprisingly difficult to steer, so be prepared for quite the arm workout! There are many places to hire punts, but the Cherwell (£20 per hour) and Magdalen (£22 per hour weekdays; £24 per hour at the weekend) boathouses are most popular.
WHERE TO EAT
Have a look at my foodie guide to Oxford for a much more extensive selection of recommendations – from cosy coffees spots to curl up with a book, to cheap eats for a quick lunch, and places to splurge on a date – or when the parents are in town for a visit!
Vaults and Garden – this must be one of the most sought after locations for a café in Oxford! Reward yourself after a climb up the University Cathedral tower with one of their fantastic buttery scones overlooking the Radcliffe Camera.
Handle Bar Café – I love this quirky café, for its delicious vegetarian breakfasts and cute décor. Even better, downstairs is a 1920s-style speakeasy bar serving tea cocktails.
Georgina’s Café – slightly tricky to find in the Covered Market (up the stairs between Brothers Café and the Covered Arts shop), but worth it for the fantastic (and super affordable) Greek lunches.
The Ashmolean – the glass-walled rooftop restaurant is a great place for lunch and resting weary feet. They offer a really reasonably priced set lunch menu, which is designed to match whatever exhibition is currently on.
Gee’s – A top date spot if you are trying to impress – or want your parents to take you out if you are here as a student! This restaurant in a tiled-floor conservatory is super picturesque, and the Mediterranean food fantastic. The burrata and roasted vegetables was one of the best dishes I have had in Oxford by a mile.
The Grand Café – on the site of the oldest coffee house in England (according to Samuel Pepys), the mirrored walls and endless marble of the Grand Café make an opulent setting for afternoon tea. Be prepared to queue in the busy summer months, but it is worth it for a visit to this Oxford institution.
WHERE TO STAY
Malmaison Oxford – once a castle, then a prison and now a hotel. Malmaison have kept all of the original prison features – peep hole windows, metal stairs and the Exercise Yard. There are few places more unique to stay in Oxford! Rooms are very comfortable, and reassuringly more spacious than you might expect from a prison cell!
The Head of the River – gorgeous riverside pub, with fabulous rooms, less than a ten minute walk to most of Oxford’s main sights. The setting by the river is lovely, and the large terrace is a great spot for a summer’s evening.
The Randolph – this historic hotel in the centre of Oxford has become a bit of an institution thanks to the many films and TV series it has featured in. The opulent rooms have been renovated in the last few years.
Old Parsonage Hotel – modern rooms close to the Natural History Museum, with a bistro offering simple, but excellent, food. The communal areas are lovely, which much more character than the rooms – the covered courtyard and library in particular.
Don’t miss my foodie guide to Oxford and suggestions for exploring the literary side of this famous book loving city. For getting out of Oxford, have a look at my guide to the Cotswolds if you are looking for ideas to extend your trip.
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