From Philip Pullman to CS Lewis, and JRR Tolkien to Colin Dexter and Evelyn Waugh, the city of dreaming spires has such distinguished literary pedigree that this should probably be a whole series rather than just a single guide! This is therefore more a guide to my favourite spots, rather than a comprehensive list of all the places in Oxford you can indulge your inner bookworm.
Walking the streets of Oxford, it is not hard to see how so many authors have been inspired by the city. Perhaps after a few hours of strolling through the hallowed cloisters and hushed libraries you might be similarly inspired…!
My Favourite Oxford Books
You can find all of these books in my “Oxford list” on the wonderful Bookshop.org – an online service supporting local, independent book shops. 10% of every sale is given to independent bookshops.
Inspector Morse by Colin Dexter – despite being fictional, the cantankerous Oxford detective is possibly the city’s most famous resident! There are thirteen novels, all of which have absorbingly complicated mysteries to unravel.
His Dark Materials by Philip Pullman – this trilogy of fantasy novels follows Lyra, who lives in a world in which humans have animal companions (my dream!) and a fictional college is investigating a mysterious particle, Dust. Oxford – both real and in alternative realities – is explicitly used as the setting for the trilogy.
Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland by Lewis Carroll – many locations across the city inspired Carroll’s nonsense novel beloved of children across the world, and equally enjoyable for adults looking for an escape!
Gaudy Night by Dorothy L. Sawyers – a women’s college is terrorised by poison pen letters and threatening practical jokes which Sawyer’s Lord Peter Whimsey and Harriet Vane must stop.
The Chronicles of Narnia by C. S. Lewis – full of magic and talking animals, the seven allegorical novels of The Chronicles follow the adventures of the Pevensie children – Lucy, Susan, Edmund and Peter – and the magical land of Narnia.
Brideshead Revisited by Evelyn Waugh – probably the most famous novel set in Oxford, it tells the story of an Oxford undergraduate in the 1920s who becomes fascinated by the world of privilege he encounters.
The Lord of the Rings by J. R. R. Tolkien – our unlikely hero, a little hobbit called Frodo Baggins, must undertake an treacherous journey through the fictional world of Middle Earth to safeguard civilisation from evil. The epic (in both size and scope!) fantasy series is so clearly inspired by the spirit and landscape of Oxford that there is no way I could leave it off this list!
WHAT TO SEE
The Bodleian Library – there are some spectacular libraries in Oxford, but most are closed to the public. Thankfully parts of the “Bod” are open, including the beautiful 15thC Divinity School and the glorious Duke Humphrey’s Medieval Library. Duke Humprey’s served as the “restricted” section in the Hogwarts’ Library in the Harry Potter films, whilst the Divinity School was the Hospital Wing. In busier months I would definitely recommend booking your place on the tours online in advance. Entry to the Divinity School is £2.50, and half hour tours are £9.
Oxford Botanic Garden – fans of Philip Pullam’s make the trip to see the bench where Will and Lyra, Pullam’s main characters, say goodbye for the last time in The Amber Spyglass. It is a lovely spot to sit and enjoy a peaceful moment in these lovely gardens. Entry is £5.45, 9am to 5pm daily.
St Mary’s Passage – behind University Church is a small passage, with an ornate wooden door set halfway down, not far from a lamppost. Both the door and the lamppost are thought to have inspired CS Lewis to create The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe.
Magdalen College – where CS Lewis was a fellow of English Literature. In the college cloisters you will see the carvings of animals which inspired the moment that Aslan, in The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe, brought frozen animals back to life. Entry is £8. Monday-Sunday: 10am to 7pm (or dusk, whichever is earlier).
Christ Church College – the birthplace of Alice in Wonderland. Lewis Carroll – real name Charles Dodgson – met the real Alice here in the 19th century. She was the young daughter of the Dean of Christ Church. The story goes that one day whilst punting on the River Isis, Carroll told Alice about a young girl’s adventures down a rabbit hole. And so began his famous tales. The little door in the Cathedral Garden of Christ Church is said to have inspired Alice’s door to Wonderland.
Although neither JK Rowling nor her most famous creation have a connection to Oxford, Christ Church will be recognisable to fans of the Harry Potter films, as many scenes were filmed here. The dining hall inspired Hogwarts’ Great Hall, and the stairs leading up to the dining hall will be familiar from the arrival of Hogwarts’ students on their first day.
Entry to the College is £8 in the winter, and £10 in the summer. Monday-Friday: 9am – 5pm. In the summer it is worth booking online to avoid the queues.
WHAT TO DO
The Ashmolean Museum – the oldest public museum in Britain is a great place to enjoy for all visitors, but it should be particularly high up the list for fans of JRR Tolkien. The collection of Posie rings – gold rings with inscriptions – was the basis for the famous ring in the Lord of the Rings.
Tolkien’s works are heavily influenced by his time as a professor at Pembroke College, and later Merton College. You can visit both, and also admire the Radcliffe Camera which Tolkien fictionalised as the Temple of Armenelos in The Silmarillion. Entry is free, daily 10am to 5pm.
If you are a real Tolkien fan, you can also visit his grave – and that of his wife Edith – at Wolvercote Cemetery on the Banbury Road. The graves bear the names Luthien and Beren, referring to the elf maiden and warrior from another of Tolkien’s stories.
Natural History Museum – a wonderful way to spend an afternoon, literary lovers should look out for the famous Oxford Dodo – perhaps inspiration for the Dodo in Alice in Wonderland? Admission is free, daily 10am to 5pm.
Story Museum – almost every room in this quirky museum has something to touch, listen to, smell, or dress up in. It is a wonderful place to inspire children to explore the famous literature of the city. You can visit the Mad Hatter’s Tea Party, or push through a wall of fur coats inside a wardrobe to visit Narnia. Stories are read aloud hourly – just ask which room they will be in when you arrive. Adult tickets are £8, whilst children’s tickets are £5.
The Oxford Literary Festival
Held every March, the Oxford Literary Festival attracts around 500 speakers and authors from all over the world to give talks on all manner of literary subjects from the latest fiction to biography, the arts, history, science, travel, and current affairs. The festival also includes a popular children’s programme. The festival is organised around two hubs at the Bodleian Library/Sheldonian Theatre and at Worcester College. Prices vary for different events, but are usually between £7-13.
If you can’t make it for the literary festival, Blackwell’s hosts events and author talks throughout the year. And for the last twenty years, the East Oxford Community Centre has hosted an open-mic night – called Catweazle – involving poetry and story telling every Thursday night.
WHERE TO SHOP
Blackwell’s – one of the most famous bookshops in the UK, Blackwell’s holds over 250,00 books amounting to three miles of bookcases! The Norrington Room, on the bottom floor, claims to be the largest room in Europe devoted to the sale of books. You can therefore be sure you will find what you are after! There are nine branches in the city, but check out the original on Broad Street. Even if you can’t make it to Oxford in person, you can take a virtual tour of the shop online!
Alice’s Shop – originally a sweet shop, this adorable little shop is now home to all manner of Alice souvenirs.
Oxfam Books – the original Oxfam bookshop, opened in 1987, this is the place to find second hand books with profits going to a fantastic cause. They caused quite a stir in 2008 when they sold a very rare Graham Greene novel for £15,000… most of their offerings are slightly more affordable!
The Book Stop – discounted bookshop, with most books going for £3 to £5.
St Philip’s Books – specialising in rare and second hand books, with a particular focus on theology.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
Eagle and Child – this was where the Inklings – a writers’ group which counted J. R. R. Tolkien and C. S. Lewis as members – came to drink. In the summer months it gets extremely busy, but try to grab a seat in the cosy snugs near the entrance. (To note – the Eagle and Child is currently shut, as its current owners have just sold it to another brewery. It is expected to reopen in Spring 2022.)
The Morse Bar – found in the Randolph Hotel, the elegant wood panelled bar is a great spot to sit beneath a photo of the wonderful John Thaw, who played Inspector Morse in the TV series for many years, and contemplate some of Colin Dexter’s more knotty mysteries. The Inspector cocktail is gloriously gimmicky, and completely drinkable!
On a similar “Morse” theme, there are many pubs across Oxford that the Inspector liked to frequent whilst mulling over a difficult case – a tradition maintained by his Sergeant, Robert Lewis, in the spin off Lewis TV series featuring the super Kevin Whately. Most recognisable are the Trout Inn, The White Horse and The Turf Tavern.
George Street Social – I love this café for brunch – the shakshuka is incredible. I am also easily amused by the alcoholic-themed literary steps!
Missing Bean – to my knowledge there are no literary connections to this artisan coffee roaster, but it is just a really lovely spot to spend an afternoon reading a book!
Similarly, Turl St Kitchen has a corner room full of sofas perfect for sipping tea and whiling away a few hours with a good book.
Hopefully this guide has persuaded you to plan your own literary exploration of Oxford! Check out my other literary themed guides if you are looking to further indulge your inner bookworm!
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