WHERE TO STAY ON ÎLE DE RÉ: THE BEST VILLAGES, HOTELS & RENTALS

Choosing where to stay on Île de Ré makes quite a difference to the feel of your holiday. The island may only be around 30 kilometres long, but each village has its own personality, and I wouldn’t necessarily choose the same base for a beach-heavy family holiday as I would for a long weekend focused on eating, cycling and exploring.

For a first visit to Île de Ré, my all-round choice would be La Flotte. For pure atmosphere, I love Ars-en-Ré, while Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré is a great choice if beaches are the priority. La Couarde-sur-Mer works particularly well if you want a central base for exploring by bike, and Les Portes-en-Ré is where I’d head for a quieter escape surrounded by pine forests and some of the island’s wildest beaches.

We travelled to Île de Ré with young children and spent our time exploring the island rather than staying in one resort. One thing I hadn’t fully appreciated before visiting was how much the landscape—and consequently the experience of staying here—changes from one end of the island to the other.

This guide compares the best villages to stay in on Île de Ré, along with some of my favourite boutique hotels, luxury campsites and stylish holiday rentals.

For everything else you need to know — from things to do, to what to eat, and where to find the markets and the best beaches — read my full Île de Ré guide. 

WHICH PART OF ÎLE DE RÉ SHOULD YOU CHOOSE?

The geography of Île de Ré is worth understanding before booking accommodation.

At the mainland end, around Rivedoux-Plage, Sainte-Marie-de-Ré and La Flotte, things feel a little more accessible. You are closer to the bridge and La Rochelle, which can be useful for a short break or if you plan to make trips back to the mainland.

Around Saint-Martin-de-Ré, Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré and La Couarde-sur-Mer, you’re in the heart of the island, with good access to beaches, restaurants and cycle routes. These villages make particularly practical bases if you want to explore in several directions rather than spending your holiday driving from one end of the island to the other.

Continue west towards Loix, Ars-en-Ré, Saint-Clément-des-Baleines and Les Portes-en-Ré, and the landscape becomes increasingly open and wild. This is the Île de Ré of salt marshes, oyster beds, pine forests and huge Atlantic skies.

Personally, I preferred the atmosphere towards this western side of the island. It felt quieter, more distinctive and somehow more like the Île de Ré I’d imagined before arriving.

That said, if I only had a long weekend, I’d stay in La Flotte or Saint Martin You’ll spend less time getting around and more time actually enjoying the island.

La Flotte: Best Place To Stay On Île De Ré For First-Time Visitors

If I were recommending one all-round base for a first family holiday on Île de Ré, La Flotte would be very hard to beat.

It’s one of the island’s prettiest villages, centred around a harbour lined with cafés and restaurants. There are narrow streets to wander, boutiques to browse and one of my favourite markets on Île de Ré.

Crucially, there is enough here that you don’t need to get on a bike every time somebody wants an ice cream.

La Flotte is also well positioned for exploring. Saint-Martin-de-Ré is an easy excursion by bike, while the island’s beaches and villages remain within reach.

The medieval-style market is another major advantage. Go early for fruit, bread, cheese and picnic supplies, then wander through the lanes before the village gets busier.

Stay in La Flotte if: it’s your first visit, you’re travelling with children, you want restaurants within walking distance or you like having plenty happening around you without staying in the island’s busiest town.

Think twice if: your dream Île de Ré holiday is primarily about wild Atlantic beaches and complete seclusion. You’ll probably prefer the western end.

Where to stay in La Flotte

Le Môle – for something with more character, I’d look at Le Môle, a former 18th-century house right on La Flotte’s harbour. The rooms and duplex apartments are individual and relaxed, with some facing the sea, and the market is practically on the doorstep — exactly the sort of location that makes it easy to slip into the rhythm of the village.

Saint-Martin-de-Ré: best for restaurants and things to do

Saint-Martin-de-Ré is one of the best places to stay on Île de Ré if you want plenty within walking distance.

There are restaurants, cafés, shops, a market, harbour, playground, carousel and the Clocher Observatoire, along with the remarkable Vauban fortifications surrounding the town.

It is particularly appealing for a shorter stay because you can arrive and immediately have plenty to do without travelling elsewhere.

The trade-off is popularity. Saint-Martin is one of the busiest places on the island, particularly during the summer holidays. If your mental picture of Île de Ré involves deserted lanes and sleepy evenings, I’d look further west.

But if your priorities are restaurants, atmosphere and convenience, Saint-Martin is difficult to beat.

Stay in Saint-Martin-de-Ré if: you’re visiting for a weekend, want lots of restaurants nearby, prefer exploring on foot or don’t plan to use a car much.

Think twice if: you want peace, wild beaches or somewhere that feels removed from the island’s visitors.

Where to stay in Saint-Martin-de-Ré

La Maison Douce, Saint-Martin-de-Ré – a romantic little hideaway behind the harbour, combining a 19th-century house with softly eclectic interiors and a secluded garden. Come for slow breakfasts beneath the veranda and Saint-Martin-de-Ré on your doorstep. This would be high on my list for a couples’ weekend on Île de Ré.

Villa Clarisse & Spa – the splurge. An elegant 18th-century townhouse with just a handful of refined rooms, a serene garden and heated pool, hidden only 60 metres from Saint-Martin’s harbour. This is the option I’d consider for a special occasion or an indulgent few days where the hotel is part of the holiday rather than simply somewhere to sleep.

Hôtel de Toiras – occupying an old house right on the harbour with rooms individually decorated in a quietly traditional style. I’d choose it for the setting as much as the hotel itself: you can walk straight out onto the quays, while the garden, pool and excellent service give you somewhere peaceful to retreat to afterwards. A perfect pick for a special stay in Saint-Martin — particularly if you like historic hotels with a sense of place rather than contemporary boutique minimalism.

La Baronnie Hotel and Spa – an 18th-century mansion tucked behind walls and gardens, right in the middle of Saint-Martin but remarkably quiet. There’s a heated outdoor pool, and the Cinq Mondes spa has a small indoor pool, jacuzzi and sauna — I’d choose it for a few days when you want to mix exploring the island with a little pampering. The lovely 23 rooms and suites are individually decorated,

Slow Village Saint-Martin-de-Ré – offers a completely different proposition. Renovated cabins are scattered through a leafy, car-free park, with a large swimming pool, restaurant and kitchen gardens. You also have easy access by bike to Saint-Martin. It makes an appealing compromise between camping and a conventional holiday rental.

Villa Marcus – perfect for a big family gathering or a group of friends, with four bedrooms, four bathrooms and a heated private pool. It’s just a five-minute walk from Basse Benaie beach, while the spacious living area and separate suite with its own kitchen give everyone a little breathing room.

Maison neuve à deux pas de la plage – this is a new-build villa with a surprisingly traditional Rétais feel, just 500 metres from Basse Benaie beach. There are six double bedrooms, each with its own bathroom, plus a heated pool and a huge 90-square-metre living space, so this is one for a proper group holiday rather than a quiet weekend for two.

Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré: best for beaches

Families coming primarily for the beach should look closely at Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré. The big attraction is Plage des Gollandières, a broad Atlantic beach backed by dunes. We also loved the Passerelle des Gollandières, the wooden boardwalk running alongside the coast.

It’s easy to build a wonderfully simple day here: market in the morning, beach after lunch and a cycle or ice cream before dinner.

Le Bois-Plage is also relatively central, so choosing a beach base doesn’t mean sacrificing access to the rest of Île de Ré.

Stay in Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré if: you’re travelling with children, want to walk or cycle to the beach, or imagine spending more time on the sand than around a harbour.

Think twice if: restaurants and evening atmosphere are more important to you than beach access.

Where to stay in Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré

Maison propice au farniente – a bright, contemporary island house with plenty of space, a garden and hot tub, conveniently positioned beside a cycle route. It would be particularly good for families or friends who want a stylish Île de Ré rental rather than a hotel, while still having plenty of the island within easy reach.

La Couarde-sur-Mer: best central base for exploring Île de Ré

La Couarde-sur-Mer is brilliantly positioned if your priority is exploring as much of the island as possible, particularly by bike. You’re roughly in the middle of Île de Ré, meaning Saint-Martin and La Flotte remain accessible in one direction while Ars, the salt marshes and wilder western end beckon in the other. There are beaches nearby too, so you don’t have to choose between a practical touring base and a seaside holiday.

I particularly like La Couarde for travellers planning to hire bikes for the week. Rather than repeatedly cycling out from one extreme end of the island, you’re well positioned for rides in several directions.

Stay in La Couarde-sur-Mer if: cycling is a priority, you want to explore the whole island or you’re staying for a week rather than a weekend.

Think twice if: you specifically want the bustle and restaurant choice of Saint-Martin or the particularly atmospheric streets of Ars.

Where to stay in La Couarde-sur-Mer

La Cabane du Pêcheur – a lovely, quietly tucked-away house in La Couarde, with a generous garden and plenty of space for a family or group of friends. It’s around 250 metres from the beach and just far enough from the centre to feel peaceful, while still being an easy cycle or walk into the village.

DUNE – If the idea is to spend a few days barely needing to leave the house, DUNE is the place. It’s right by the beach, with a private heated pool, hot tub, garden and four bedrooms — the sort of place that would work particularly well for a group or family wanting a proper beach-house holiday.

La Maison de la Dune – a small, peaceful retreat rather than a conventional guesthouse, tucked into the Bois Henri IV at La Couarde. There are just three double rooms, each with its own terrace, and the beach is a short walk through the woods and dunes; breakfast, a heated pool and the wonderfully relaxed setting are the real draws.

Ars-en-Ré: the most beautiful place to stay on Île de Ré

For pure village charm, Ars-en-Ré is my top pick. Its distinctive black-and-white church spire rises above whitewashed houses with green shutters, narrow lanes and hollyhocks. It feels wonderfully Rétais without being quite as busy as Saint-Martin.

This is somewhere I’d stay without too much of an agenda. Wander the streets. Have coffee. Browse the market. Cycle through the surrounding landscape. Eat something good and linger into the evening.

Ars is also particularly well positioned for exploring the western half of the island, including the salt marshes, Phare des Baleines and beaches around Les Portes-en-Ré.

For me, this part of the island has the atmosphere that makes Île de Ré feel special.

Stay in Ars-en-Ré if: village atmosphere matters most, you want somewhere romantic, you enjoy cycling or you’re drawn to the wilder western end of Île de Ré.

Think twice if: you only have two or three days but still want to visit attractions across the entire island.

Where to stay in Ars-en-Ré

Hôtel Le Sénéchal – my boutique-hotel pick on Île de Ré. Individually designed rooms, a flower-filled garden and small heated pool are tucked into the heart of Ars-en-Ré, moments from the port. It has exactly the sort of understated island style I want from an Île de Ré hotel: elegant without feeling overly polished or corporate. If I were returning without children for a few days, this is where I’d look first.

Les Portes-en-Ré: best for a quiet and luxurious escape

At the far western end of Île de Ré, Les Portes-en-Ré feels noticeably more secluded. This is the island of pine forests, wild beaches and slower days. Nearby Plage de Trousse-Chemise is my favourite beach on Île de Ré, and the surrounding landscape feels much further removed from the mainland than the island’s relatively small size would suggest.

Les Portes is ideal if you’re happy spending your holiday locally: cycling to the beach, lingering over lunch and generally resisting the urge to rush around sightseeing.

The disadvantage is obvious. You’re at the far end of the island, so visiting La Flotte or crossing back to La Rochelle becomes more of an expedition.

Stay in Les Portes-en-Ré if: you want quiet, beautiful beaches, pine forests and an escapist atmosphere.

Think twice if: it’s your first short visit or you want to explore the whole island every day.

Where to stay in Les Portes-en-Ré

Le Phare -more beach retreat than campsite, Le Phare has handsome cabins tucked among greenery at the wild western end of the island. There are two heated pools, a restaurant and bike hire, with the beach just across the road. For families who like the freedom and facilities of camping but aren’t particularly interested in actually sleeping under canvas, this is the top pick amongst the luxury campsites on Île de Ré.

Sainte-Marie-de-Ré: best for a quieter stay close to the mainland

Sainte-Marie-de-Ré doesn’t receive quite the same attention as Saint-Martin, La Flotte or Ars, but it can be a clever place to stay. You’re relatively close to the bridge and La Rochelle while still having access to beaches and cycle routes. Accommodation can also offer better value than in some of the island’s most sought-after villages. I’d particularly consider Sainte-Marie if you want a self-catering family holiday or glamping-style stay rather than being in the middle of a harbour village.

Stay in Sainte-Marie-de-Ré if: value, beach access and accommodation space matter more than having restaurants immediately outside your door.

Where to stay in Sainte-Marie-de-Ré

Huttopia Côte Sauvage – for waking to the sound of the Atlantic. Huttopia Côte Sauvage offers simple canvas-and-wood accommodation close to the coast, with a restaurant and bike hire. It’s a particularly appealing choice if your version of luxury is being able to wander down to the sea rather than having room service.

Résidence de Charme Le Petit Bois – self-catering accommodation without sacrificing style. Neat little houses are gathered around a heated pool and garden, giving families more independence than a hotel while retaining the feel of a thoughtfully designed holiday property.

La Villa du Phare -a smart option for couples or a small family who prefer the independence of a house. Comfortable and nicely appointed, La Villa du Phare makes a useful base for exploring the quieter southern side of the island.

Rivedoux-Plage: best for convenience and easy access to La Rochelle

Rivedoux-Plage is the first village you reach after crossing the bridge from La Rochelle. It wouldn’t be my first choice for classic Île de Ré prettiness. The village feels more practical and commercial than places such as Ars or La Flotte. But the beach is enormous, and the location is exceptionally convenient if you want easy access on and off the island.

Rivedoux is also worth considering if you’re incorporating Île de Ré into a wider French road trip and don’t necessarily want to drive all the way to the western end on arrival.

Stay in Rivedoux-Plage if: you want a large beach, watersports, convenient access to La Rochelle or an easy base near the bridge.

Think twice if: picturesque village atmosphere is the main reason you’re coming to Île de Ré.

Where to stay in Rivedoux-Plage

La Passarelle Grande – a spacious four-bedroom house, with a heated private pool and gorgeous terrace. It’s only about 400 metres from Plage Sud, so a good option for a family or group of friends who want plenty of space and a pool, while still being able to walk to the beach.

FAQ: WHERE TO STAY ON ILE DE RE

Where is the best place to stay on Île de Ré with children?

For most families visiting Île de Ré with kids for the first time, I’d choose La Flotte, Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré or La Couarde-sur-Mer.

Choose La Flotte if you want the easiest all-round family base. Restaurants, a lovely market and plenty to explore are close at hand, while Saint-Martin is easily reached by bike.

Choose Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré if your holiday will revolve around the beach.

Choose La Couarde-sur-Mer if you’re staying for a week, hiring bikes and want a central base from which to explore.

I’d choose Ars-en-Ré for atmosphere, particularly with older children who are happy cycling longer distances.

And I’d choose Les Portes-en-Ré if the priority is slowing down completely rather than seeing everything.

Where should couples stay on Île de Ré?

For a romantic trip, my choice would be Ars-en-Ré.

It’s beautiful, atmospheric and particularly lovely in the evening after day-trippers have disappeared. Hôtel Le Sénéchal would be my first hotel to investigate.

Alternatively, stay in Saint-Martin-de-Ré if dinner, drinks and being able to walk home afterwards matter more than complete tranquillity. La Maison Douce and Villa Clarisse both suit that sort of stay particularly well.

For beaches and seclusion, go all the way to Les Portes-en-Ré.

Where should you stay on Île de Ré without a car?

I’d choose La Flotte or Saint-Martin-de-Ré.

Both have enough restaurants, shops and things to do that you aren’t dependent on a car for everyday outings, while bikes make exploring nearby villages straightforward.

The island’s cycling network is one of its greatest strengths, and once you’re settled, getting around by bike becomes part of the holiday rather than simply transport.

For our family, the ideal balance was a car for bigger island-crossing journeys and bikes for almost everything else.

Hotel, campsite or holiday rental?

This largely depends on the kind of Île de Ré holiday you’re planning.

A boutique hotel works beautifully for couples, shorter stays and anyone who wants restaurants and village life immediately outside the door.

A holiday rental makes a lot of sense for families. Having a kitchen, separate bedrooms and somewhere to sit once children are asleep can be worth far more than traditional hotel service.

And don’t dismiss Île de Ré’s luxury campsites and cabin resorts. Places such as Le Phare, Huttopia Côte Sauvage and Slow Village offer the outdoor, bike-everywhere atmosphere that suits the island particularly well, without requiring you to bring a tent.

For a week with young children, I’d probably lean towards a stylish rental or cabin with a pool.

For three nights as a couple? Put me in Le Sénéchal.

So, where would I stay on Île de Ré?

For a first family trip, I’d choose La Flotte.

For a week focused on beaches and cycling, I’d look at Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré or La Couarde-sur-Mer.

For the prettiest, most atmospheric stay, I’d choose Ars-en-Ré.

For a quiet, slightly escapist holiday, I’d head west to Les Portes-en-Ré.

And if I were booking a child-free weekend tomorrow? Ars-en-Ré and Hôtel Le Sénéchal would be extremely difficult to resist.

The reassuring thing is that there isn’t really one universally “best” place to stay on Île de Ré. The real question is which version of the island you want outside your front door: harbour and restaurants, beach and dunes, or bicycles disappearing through salt marshes beneath an enormous Atlantic sky.

For everything else you need to know — from getting there and getting around to beaches, markets, restaurants and things to do — read my complete Île de Ré guide.