Today the start of the third week of the Holy Month of Ramadan. Over this month, more than a billion people around the world will fast from dawn until dusk.
As a non-Muslim, fasting is the thing I have always associated with Ramadan. But since moving to the Middle East I have had the opportunity to learn much more about this period from friends. I have previously visited a number of countries in the Middle East and North Africa during the month of Ramadan, but this is my first time living in a Muslim country for the entire period.
Unfortunately this year will again be slightly different to the normal festivities. Here in Oman we have a curfew and new restrictions in place due COVID. Sadly worldwide travel will also be impossible for most this year. However, this wonderful programme from Google Earth lets you explore mosques around the world and learn more about the Eid al-Fitr celebrations. Be sure to check out my guides to the Middle East if you are hoping to visit to the region once travel is permitted.
This guide will mostly focus on the Middle East and North Africa given I live in Oman, but please do let me know in the comments if you are familiar with Ramadan traditions elsewhere. I would be fascinated to hear about how it is celebrated in your corner of the world.
Finally, and most importantly… Ramadan Kareem to my Omani friends!
What is Ramadan?
The ninth – and most holy – month of the lunar calendar, during which more than a billion Muslims worldwide celebrate Allah giving the Quran to the Prophet Mohammed in 610AD. Ramadan lasts around 30 days – from one sighting of the crescent moon to the next.
Fasting is viewed as an act of worship, and is the fourth of the Five Pillars of Islam – known in Arabic as sawn. During Ramadan Muslims do not eat or drink anything – including water – between dawn and dusk. Muslims will also refrain from smoking, sexual relations and “sinful” speech and behaviour, such as gossip and lying. Those who are children, elderly, unwell, menstruating, breastfeeding or pregnant are exempt.
In addition to fasting, Ramadan is a period of intense religious study and prayer, with additional nightly prayers at the mosque known as taraweeh. There is also a significant emphasis on charity, and many Muslims will take part in voluntary work during the month.
BE PREPARED…
In many Muslim-majority countries it is illegal to eat or drink in public during Ramadan. This includes expats and non-Muslims. International hotels will remain open and continue to serve – although many will put up black out blinds so non-Muslims eating will not be seen. As opening hours are limited, it is worth booking in advance if you wish to eat out in the evening.
It is sensible to keep a few snacks in your bag in case you are unable to find somewhere to buy lunch. Just remember to eat it away from public spaces or anywhere you are visible – this includes in your car.
You should adhere more strictly to modest dress requirements and should refrain from any public displays of affection – including holding hands. Smoking is also prohibited, and you should not play music that can be heard by others.
The other thing to be aware of during Ramadan is the driving… the combination of rushing home to share an iftar meal with family, and having fasted all day, does not improve road safety! If you can, avoid the post-work rush hour – not least as the roads will be gridlocked as everyone leaves work at the same time!
RAMADAN WORKING LIFE
In most places across the Middle East and North Africa companies and employers reduce working hours during Ramadan. Usually, the working day will be about two hours shorter. Remember to be patient with Muslim colleagues during the month of Ramadan – you would get a bit grumpy if you were fasting!
You may find that malls and other businesses stay open later, to allow families to meet and share iftar meals after sunset. Supermarkets and grocery shops hours tend to remain the same.
Learn the Lingo
Ramadan Kareem – have a generous Ramadan
Ramadan Mubarak – Happy Ramadan
Eid Mubarak – have a blessed feast (last day of Ramadan)
Suhoor – the pre-dawn meal and Iftar – the most well known element of Ramadan – the post-sunset meal when families get together to break their fast.
GET INTO THE PARTY SPIRIT
The weeks leading up to Ramadan are filled with excitement as decorations appear in shop windows and fairy lights festoon everything. A friend in Muscat tells me she spends three months planning her Ramadan decorations as she loves the excitement that Ramadan brings for her children!
There is also one particular tell-tale sign Ramandan is coming in the Gulf… towers of Vimto (the berry cordial invented in Manchester in 1908) appear in all supermarkets! It is the drink of choice at iftar meals across the region. No one is quite sure how it became such a Ramadan staple, but perhaps the instant sugary hit of energy is exactly what is needed after a day fasting! Despite Vimto being a British product, I am told by a British Muslim friend that Ribena is instead the drink of choice in the UK!
JOIN AN IFTAR MEAL
Being invited to a Muslim friend or colleague’s home for an iftar meal is a real honour – and a wonderful experience. If you are only visiting a Middle Eastern country during Ramadan, most hotels will offer an iftar buffet that gives you the opportunity to sample some traditional foods.
In Oman, and no doubt many other countries around the region, it is traditional to break the fast with three dates, as this is how the Prophet Muhammed is said to have broken his own fast. They are often accompanied by dried apricots, or other fruits, and coffee.
Each country will have a favoured iftar meal or food, but below are a few of my favourites:
- Luqaimat in Saudi Arabia – I could eat these all day every day! Fried, crunchy, sweet dumplings not dissimilar to doughnuts. Often served drizzled in date syrup, which only makes them better!
- Ramadan Pidesi in Turkey – given it has Ramadan actually in its name, this soft leavened bread, covered with sesame seeds, had to be on the list!
- Bolani in Afghanistan – fired or baked flatbread stuffed with vegetables and served with yoghurt.
- Shakshuka/Chakchouka in Morocco and Algeria – this is a real breakfast staple in our house, The Husband requests it very often! Basically a thick, spiced tomato sauce in which eggs are poached. Best served drizzled with a small amount of honey and large chunks of warm bread to dunk.
- Kolak in Indonesia – desert made from coconut milk, palm sugar, and pandanus leaves.
- Sambusas/Samosas – found across the region, these small pastries stuffed with minced meat or vegetables are a staple Ramandan food in many countries. Samosas are found in India/Pakistan and Bangladesh, whilst Sambusas (which have thinner pastry) are found in the Middle East, and East and North Africa.
- Stuffed Grape Leaves – seasoned rice filled with tomatoes and onions, wrapped in grape leaves. The name differs depending on where you are – known as Yabra’a in Syria, most people are more familiar with the Iraq and Turkish name, dolma.
- Kanafeh – one of my favourite Middle Eastern deserts! Cheese pastry soaked in sugar syrup, with thin crispy noodles and garnished with pistachios.
DONATE OR VOLUNTEER
All Muslims, who are able to afford it, are expected to contribute 2.5% of their income to charity – known as zakat – as one of the Five Pillars of Islam. Muslims are also expected to fulfil zakat al-fitr, a donation on the last day of Ramadan to ensure that those who cannot afford food are fed. However, during Ramadan many Muslims also choose to donate their money and time to charitable causes, as part of their spiritual efforts to gain understanding of human suffering.
There are so many fantastic organisations working across the Middle East and many wonderful local organisations making a real difference in communities. But it can be hard to know which to support if you are not familiar with the sector or the region. I am therefore a huge fan of the GlobalGiving platform, which is a nonprofit linking donors and community-led charitable organisations. You can filter by region and by theme, to find organisations working across the Middle East and North Africa (or indeed anywhere else!).
Alternatively, if you would like to treat yourself whilst also supporting Middle Eastern and North African entrepreneurs and artisans, check out the wonderful Pink Jinn Souq. They have some seriously beautiful craft products, and a third of their profits go to Saba Relief, a charity supporting those affected by the conflict in Yemen.
PARTY FOR EID EL FITR!
Eid al-Fitr is the first Eid – meaning feast, festival or holiday – in the lunar calendar and it celebrates the end of the Holy Month of Ramadan. Family and friends will gather together to celebrate over a big meal and to exchange gifts. The date – and therefore length of Ramadan – will vary each year as it is dependent on the sighting of the Eid crescent moon.
In Oman, many people leave Muscat for Eid al-Fitr to visit family and friends but there is still a celebratory atmosphere. If you are after glamour, check out the firework display at Dubai Creek – the UAE has never knowingly underdone anything! And if you have a sweet teeth, Turkey is the place for you – baklava is a traditional gift to exchange with friends and family.
Finally, wherever you celebrate – be sure to dress up. It is a party after all!
I hope that this has developed your understanding of the month of Ramadan, and if you are an expat in Muslim country, it has given you some ideas for how to make the most of this month. I would love to hear from my Muslim readers in the comments below about any fun traditions in your family, or about how you will be celebrating. Ramadan Kareem!
Mohamad Helfawi says
Hello and thank you for this very interesting and detailed article!
I am so happy you feel this way about Ramadan and am glad it has been well-presented to you by your friends and acquaintances.
One fun moment I would like to share with you is when our parents used to wake us up to have our Suhoor meal before sunrise. We would get grumpy and say we would like to get back to bed and never be bothered again. However, as soon as we woke up on an empty stomach in the morning, we would start blaming our parents for not waking us up to eat some food before starting to fast.
@farawaydispatches says
This made me laugh – I am sure children and teenagers around the world can sympathise with not being willing to wake up early!