Xi’an is famous around the world as the home of the Terracotta Warriors. They are the single biggest reason that visitors come to the city. But I think it is a real pity if this is all you come to Shaanxi to see. Don’t get me wrong, the Terracotta Warriors are truly incredible. But there is also so much history to be explored in the city itself, and some of the best food in China to sample.
The capital of Shaanxi Province (陕西) is the geographic heart of China, and Xi’an was the Chinese capital for 13 of China’s 24 dynasties. Founded over 6000 years ago, in many ways Xi’an could be considered the cradle of Chinese civilisation. It can compete with the likes of Athens, Rome and Cairo for its ancient cultural and historical significance.
“Go to Shen Zhen for 10 years of Chinese history, Shanghai for 100 years, Beijing for 1000 years and Xi’an for everything”
Chinese Saying
In the Middle Ages, Xi’An was the eastern end of the Silk Road. This trading route brought cultural influences, spices and goods from the Middle East. This is still very much in evidence today, and this melting pot of cultures is one the things I liked most about the city.
Read on for my guide to visiting Xi’an – and yes, the Terracotta Warriors too! I hope it will persuade you to add a day or two onto your itinerary to see more of the city.
Pollution can be an issue in Xi’an, especially in the summer months. So I recommend visiting in Spring or Autumn, for the best mix of pleasant weather, lovely colours and fewer crowds.
GETTING THERE
Xianyang International Airport is well connected to other Chinese cities, and offers affordable international flights to several Asian capitals. There is a shuttle service to the centre of the city for 25 RMB.
Alternatively you can get the train to Xi’an. The high speed train will whizz you from Beijing to Xi’an in six hours. I was so impressed by the fast, efficient Chinese rail service. But to book trains you need to speak Chinese and have a local ID. For most visitors it will therefore be easier to use a third party – such as China Highlights.
GETTING AROUND
The metro system in Xi’an has just three lines and stations can be far apart meaning it is not always the most convenient option. However, it is easy to navigate as signs are in both English and Mandarin, and there are maps at all stations. The concierge in your hotel will also be able to help you find the nearest station.
Buses are more complicated, but also more convenient. Signs are only in Mandarin, so you need to know which bus to take in advance. Again, your hotel concierge can advise. Pay for your ticket in cash by inserting money into the little box by the driver. The price will be clearly displayed, but ensure you have some small notes as no change is given.
WHAT TO DO
TERRACOTTA WARRIORS
Let’s do the big one first!
I am going to be honest. My first experience of the Warriors was a disappointment. I was so excited about visiting. But when we got there it was swelteringly hot, and the most crowded place I have ever been. Busloads of tourists shoved and pushed, and we had to crane to get even a small glimpse of the warriors. Eventually we gave up and headed back outside. We sat eating a restorative ice cream feeling thoroughly deflated. Just before we were about to head for the bus back to Xi’an, we decided to brave one last look… and there wasn’t a single other soul there! Just us and around 8,000 two thousand year old warriors. It will forever be one of the most memorable, and magical, moments of my life!
So my biggest tip… visit as soon as the site opens, or over lunch! You will want around half a day to explore everything. I recommend heading straight to the hangers when you arrive, then going to the museum, before heading back to the hangers for one last warrior encounter. Once you are done I’d recommend combining your visit with a trip to the Huaqing Palace and Hot Springs (or even better, stay the night – it is also a hotel, see below).
The Warriors were constructed as the afterlife guard for China’s first Emperor, Qin Shihuang. They took 720,000 workers over forty years to construct and were hidden underground for around two thousand years until famers rediscovered them in 1974. If you want to learn more about the Warriors themselves, check out China Highlight’s fantastic article – it has lots of great graphics about the design and construction.
The Warriors are about 26 miles (42km) outside of Xian, and the site is open from 8:30am to 5pm. Getting there is straightforward – take Tourist Bus Line 5 (306) from just outside Fangzhicheng Bus Station. The journey is only around an hour and costs 7 CNY. There are a number of scams operating in the station so a few things to look out for:
- the real bus sells tickets on board, not from a chap in the street in advance;
- the bus is large and off white, with a large orange and blue “306” sign outside.
If you are unsure, ask any member of station staff or a policeman for assistance.
Although tickets to the site can be bought online, you need to be able to speak Chinese and have a Chinese mobile number. And as there can be very long queues to buy a ticket in person when you arrive, I recommend buying your tickets via a third party such as Travel China Guide or Viator for ease.
There are three options if you want a guide. Rent an audio guide (40 CNY (deposit 200 CNY)), hire a guide on site, or book onto a prearranged tour. We chose to go armed with a detailed guidebook, but if I were to visit again I would book a private guide via my hotel.
XI’AN CITY
Walk or bike the City Walls – Built in 1370, the 12 metre walls are one of the last complete City Walls in China. It takes about two hours to cycle the full 8.6 mile (14km) loop. Rental costs about 40 CNY, and the vendors at the foot of the wall offer cheaper prices than those on the top.
See the Drum Tower at night – the symbol of Xi’an is lit up at night, and it is a very pretty sight! Built in 1380, the Drum Tower (and many like it across China) were used to signal the time by the beating of a drum, and as an alarm in emergencies.
Visit the Great Mosque – one of the largest mosques in China, it is an interesting blend of Chinese and Islamic design. Construction started in 742AD, and the site is set around four courtyards. In Spring, the courtyard gardens are covered in magnolia blossom. Non-Muslims are permitted to enter for a small fee (25 CNY). Although only a few streets from the bustling Muslim Quarter, the mosque is an amazingly tranquil spot as it gets only a few visitors. Surprisingly, woman are not required to cover up, but you may still wish to dress respectfully.
Who are The Hui?
There are 56 recognised ethnic minorities in China, and the Muslim Quarter of Xi’an is home to China’s largest Muslim minority – the Hui (回族). They are the descendants of Arab and Persian Silk Road traders who settled in China over 1200 years ago.
China’s Muslim population is estimated to be around 23 million – with the Hui accounting for over 10 million (a further 10 million are Uighur). Hui are the third largest minority in China after the Zhuang and Manchus.
The word Hui means “return” in Chinese. The origins of the name stem from the hajj – the annual pilgrimage to Mecca which is one of the Five Pillars of Islam. A traditional name for Islam in Chinese is Huíjiào (回教) for the same reason.
The Hui can be recognised by their traditional dress: men wear white prayer caps and women have brightly-coloured headscarves.
Climb the Wild Goose Pagoda – completed in 652D for the study of Buddhist scriptures, Xi’an’s most identifiable landmark was built with no cement – something not entirely surprisingly given the lean! Entrance is 50 CNY to enter the Temple, and an additional 30 CNY if you want to climb to the top of the Pagoda. Every evening there is an impressive light and fountain show at 2030 in the square in front of the Pagoda.
Soak up the history at the Shaanxi Museum – over 6000 square metres of museum houses more than 370,000 historical artifacts excavated from all over Shaanxi Province. The museum issues 6,000 free tickets a day, although in summer months you may want to book onto a tour to avoid the queues.
Savour the foodie delights of the Muslim Quarter – the bustling Muslim Quarter is the destination for street food in Xi’an. It is also a great place to pick up cheaper souvenirs. It can get extremely crowed from the late afternoon onwards, and can be a bot overwhelming for the first time visitor. So here are my top tips…
Firstly, go hungry!! This is essential! There is so much on offer and you will want to try as much as possible. All food is halal – so unlike most of China, don’t expect to find any pork. Secondly, if you are concerned about stomach troubles stick to the main streets – the turnover is higher so food will be fresher (albeit slightly more expensive). Likewise, Shaanxi food can be spicy, so be sure to ask for less spice if you are not a chilli-fiend! Bú yaò là – “not spicy” – is a key phrase to learn…!
Prices at the food stalls are fixed, but the souvenir shops will expect you to haggle. Payment is by cash, or by scanning a QR code to pay by card. If you don’t have WeChat Pay or Alipay, cash will be easiest.
Try your hand at calligraphy – Shuyuanmen Street (behind the Beilin Museum) is filled with stalls and shops selling calligraphy and art supplies. You can pick up some beautiful, authentic, rubbings, stone inscriptions and artwork. It is such a lovely place to walk around, as it is much more peaceful than much of the city and I was completely fascinated to watch the amazingly talented artists at work. It is a really great insight into the rich breadth of Chinese traditional crafts and probably my favourite street in Xi’an.
What to Eat in Xi’an
Biang Biang Mian – (surely the most complicated Chinese character in existence – FIFTY SIX strokes!) – wide hand pulled noodles, with vegetables, minced meat and lazi (辣子) – a chilli sauce.
Rou Jia Mo (肉夹馍) – flaky, round bun filled with chopped, stewed meat known as the Chinese hamburger. It can possibly lay claim to being the world’s oldest hamburger – it originates from 200BC. But it is so different to western hamburgers, I don’t really think they are really comparable! The filling is usually lamb or beef, and they are best enjoyed piping hot from one of the food stalls in the Muslim Quarter.
Yang Rou Paomo (羊肉泡馍) – this mutton soup with bread is one of the most visible Muslim and Arab influences in Shaanxi cuisine. Break up the bread into small pieces, and then pour the soup over the top. I really love the pickled garlic it comes with.
Liangpi Noodles (凉皮) – a real Xi’an staple. A dough made from flour is washed in water, to release all the starches. The water sits all night to allow the starch to collect at the bottom, before being steamed into thin sheets that are cut into noodles. They are served cold with cucumber and bean sprouts, and a sauce made from sesame paste, black vinegar and chilli oil.
Guo Kui (锅盔) – crispy flatbread, which is stamped with intricately decorated patterns. Known as the “Chinese naan”.
Meat skewers/kebabs (肉串) – cooked on wooden or metal skewers, these kebabs are everywhere in Xi’an. So much so that the bins are literally overflowing with discarded sticks! My favourites was the spicy, cumin covered lamb.
WHERE TO EAT
The Muslim Quarter is my favourite place to eat in Xi’an given the lively atmosphere, but these are my top picks for the times you want to sit down to eat!
Laomi Jia Paomo – long established restaurant (it has been going over one hundred years!) serving Yang Rou Paomo (mutton soup). Not far from North Gate, serve is quick and the vibe is local.
Wei Jia Liangpi – multiple branches around the city serving the famous cold noodles at reasonable prices. You will find them by both the South Gate and the Big Wild Goose Pagoda.
Haidilao Hot Pot – I love hot pot, it is such a sociable way to eat! A pot of flavoured broth is brought to the table (get half and half if you need less spicy!), in which you cook a selection of vegetables and meat, before coating them in your own dipping sauce.
Defachang – one of the top dumpling houses in Xi’an. Get their taster menu to try a (very delicious) selection.
Saga Shopping Mall – I never expected to recommend a shopping mall as a top place to eat! But the top two floors of this mall are dedicated to eateries, including a section on the top floor selling traditional foods. It is a great place to try some of the best street food, but in slightly calmer surroundings – and with a place to sit!
WHERE TO SLEEP
PuSu Zen Collection Hotel – great location almost on top of the city walls. The design is beautiful – traditional meets minimal – and the rooftop terrace a serious selling point. My top pick for Xi’An.
Sofitel Legend – centrally located luxury! One of the most famous hotels in Xi’an it sits on the site of a former Imperial palace.
Eastern House – walking distance to all of the main sights, it is a great location if you are keen to get about on foot. Modern, comfortable rooms with a really good breakfast buffet. Free afternoon tea is served at 4pm daily.
Ibis South Gate – great location and walking distance from the City Walls and close to two metro stations. Clean, reliable rooms from this international chain.
W Xi’An – huge, comfortable rooms and the sharp modern design features you would expect in a W hotel. The swimming pool is a real bonus if you are there during the hot and very sticky summer months.
Huaqing Palace Resort and Spa – only ten minutes from the Terracotta Army meaning that you can easily get to the site for opening time. Even if you can’t staying here, the palace is well worth visiting (a guided tour is included in the room rate).
Hopefully this has persuaded you that there is more to Xi’An than the Terracotta Warriors, and perhaps even tempted you to plan a visit! Check out my other guides for more inspiration for your next adventure – including my favourite destinations for food lovers!
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