Over three hundred years after Pepys wrote his famous ode to London, it still remains one of the most hotly sought after destinations in the world. Its top sights are some of the most instantly recognisable anywhere – Big Ben, Buckingham Palace and the Tower of London. It is a diverse, multicultural melting pot that has something to offer everyone.
But despite the excitement, there is no doubting it can be overwhelming for the first time visitor as there is just so much to see and do. I lived in London for nearly a decade, so have had plenty of time to explore its many neighbourhoods and hidden gems. So this guide is designed to make your first visit easier, setting out all you need to know to get that quintessential London experience without the stress.
Don’t Miss!
Royal Life – immerse yourself in royal history and glitz. Buckingham Palace is open during the summer, and my favourite, the Tower of London, is open all year round. Check out the Changing of the Guard for a bit of extra pageantry.
Get some fresh air – London has an incredible number of green spaces. Depending on the weather, pick up an ice cream or a hot chocolate and go for a stroll.
Cosy up in a traditional Pub – as iconic as Big Ben and red buses. Spend long summer evenings in fairy-light strewn beer gardens, or cold rainy days by a roaring fire.
Expand your mind – from thousand year old Egyptian mummies, to cutting edge modern art, London’s museums and galleries have it all.
Need to Know
Language English
Currency Pounds Sterling
Banks/ATMs Most places accept Mastercard and Visa. American Express is increasingly accepted. ATMs are widespread, and found in many supermarkets.
Nearest Airport Heathrow, Gatwick or London City
Getting Around Bus, Tube, bike or walk!
Staying in Touch Free wifi is widely available. Prepaid SIMs are available from vending machines at Heathrow and Gatwick.
Weather Changeable! Broadly mild, but some humid summer days, and cold winters. Always carry an umbrella!
GETTING TO LONDON
Heathrow, Gatwick and City airports are closest to central London. I recommend using public transport from Heathrow and Gatwick instead of the Airport Express trains. The Heathrow Express costs £22, and the Gatwick Express is £19.90. By contrast, the Underground from Heathrow to Central London costs just £6, and a ticket on a train from Gatwick to Victoria is £11.90. The journey times are pretty much the same so it seems mad not to save your money!
For the cheapest tickets to London – or any train in Europe – I always recommend checking Trainline. I find they tend to have the best prices, and offer a “split ticket” service. This ‘splits’ your train journey into multiple tickets, instead of buying a single ticket to your destination. Bizarrely, if you buy multiple tickets along your trip you can save a lot of money compared to having a single ticket – and all without having to change trains!
If you arrive into London by train, be sure to keep hold of your train ticket to get Two For One deals on major attractions. You can also get the train into central London from continental Europe via the excellent Eurostar.
GETTING AROUND LONDON
London is a surprisingly walkable city. Distances between underground stations can be deceptive so check out this handy map to find the walking times. If you want to go further afield, Transport for London provides details on all buses and water ferries, as well as the famous underground system – The Tube.
The Tube is easy to use – tap your Oyster card or contactless bank card on the yellow reader on the way in and out. Fares vary on the “zones” you are travelling through, but will automatically cap at the price of a day ticket if you make multiple journeys. For the best value, buy an Oyster card at any station or use your usual bank card for contactless payment. Download the Citymapper app to find the best routes.
For a cheaper option, London buses are an iconic way to get about. Just tap in once when you get on – it is a flat fare where ever you go. As with all big cities, London traffic can be hectic so try to avoid the bus at peak commuter times.
London’s famous taxis – Black Cabs – can be hailed on most streets, but are an expensive way to get about the city. All are metered, and accept card payments. If you are feeling energetic, there are more than 750 spots across the city where you can hire a Santander Cycle – known to most Londoners as ‘Boris bikes’.
LONDON BOROUGHS
Which London borough – or neighbourhood – is best causes fierce debate amongst the city’s residents. North of the river or south, east or west? These are a few of my favourite areas in London but you are sure to find one that suits you best!
Westminster – perfect for the first timer, Westminster is home to many of the city’s most iconic landmarks. Get your photo taken in a red phone box in front of Big Ben, and see the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. Don’t forget to see the Queen at Buckingham Palace.
Fulham, Chelsea and Kensington – one of the most exclusive (and expensive) areas of London. Check out the many great museums, or explore the bars and restaurants that spread out from South Kensington Tube Station. My favourite green space in the city – Bishop’s Park – runs along the river in Fulham.
The West End – is there anywhere better in the world to see a show than London’s West End? Tickle your taste buds in Chinatown before picking up last minute tickets to one of the many, many plays, operas and musicals. Check out Theatre Tickets Direct if you want to find cheaper tickets and deals to book in advance.
Shoreditch – London’s hipster central! Bars and restaurants attract London’s coolest crowd every night of the week. Head to Brick Lane for some of the best curries you can find anywhere in the world.
Richmond and Kew – seek out the deer in Richmond Park, admire the flowers in Kew Gardens and wander the streets to find your perfect independent café. I love walking along the Thames River Path before Sunday lunch in a local pub.
Greenwich – one of the prettiest boroughs in London, with historic buildings and a lovely market. Get the water taxi along the river to start to your Greenwich exploration. The view from Greenwich Park and the Royal Observatory is one of the best in London.
Notting Hill – famous for its colourful houses and buzzing market, Notting Hill is the spot to find a vintage bargain. Pick up a picnic at Ottolenghi’s before heading to Hyde Park.
The City – the financial district – “the Square Mile” – is the centre of the original Roman city. A must for historians and modern architecture enthusiasts alike. On the edge of the City is the famous Tower of London and Tower Bridge.
THINGS TO DO
London Eye – offering amazing views over the River Thames and the Houses of Parliament, aim for early morning or sunset. 32 glass capsules, each weighing 10 tons, take half an hour to do a full loop of the wheel. Book online for cheaper tickets and as the queues get crazy busy! (£24.50; daily, 11am-6pm). If you would like to get up high, but don’t want to splash out on the London Eye, Sky Garden is a fantastic alternative. On the 35th floor of the “walkie talkie” building, tickets are free but must be booked online in advance.
Westminster Abbey – British Kings and Queens have been crowned here since 1066. More recently it hosted a rather famous Royal wedding. Consecrated in 1065, the medieval walls contain the burial place of some of London’s most famous residents. Top tip – a door in Dean’s Yard leads to the Cloisters – a great way to get a view of the Abbey without the crowds in Parliament Square. (£18 when booked online; 09.30-3.30pm daily).
Houses of Parliament and Big Ben – probably the most recognisable image of London, this has been the seat of the British Parliament since 1870. Be aware that Big Ben is being renovated, and likely to be in scaffolding until late 2021. Get your photo with an iconic red phone box on Whitehall or Parliament Square.
Buckingham Palace – a must do for any first time visitor, check out the Queen’s house and see the Changing of the Guard (11am, daily in the summer, and every other day for the rest of the year. Get there early if you want a good view). The State Rooms are open to visitors during the summer – book online as they sell out very quickly (£26.50: 0930-1830, July to October). The other central London Palaces – St James’ and Kensington Palace – are short walks away.
St Paul’s Cathedral – this has been a religious site for thousands of years – England’s oldest Church stood here from 605AD. The views from the Dome are amazing, but the way up is not for the claustrophobic. The Whispering Gallery (257 steps) is not to be missed – the acoustics are such that you can hear someone whispering at the other end. (£20: 08.30-1630 Monday-Saturday).
Tower of London – one of the most important landmarks in England, The Tower is most famous as the prison that held famous figures like Anne Boleyn and Guy Fawkes. Book in advance, and go early to miss the tour groups. Once you are there head straight to the Crown Jewels exhibit to try and avoid the worst of the crowds. (£25; daily 10am-5pm).
Check out the famous Tower Bridge – if you are lucky you might get to see it open (you can check online for expected opening times). It is possible to get inside the Bridge and there is a glass walkway between the towers offering amazing views over the Thames. If you are looking for a less crowded view than the London Eye, it is a great option. Book ahead to avoid queuing (£10.60; daily, 09.30am-6pm).
The Museums – London is home to some of the world’s best museums and galleries, and best of all, most are free. My top recommendations are the Natural History Museum to see Hope the blue whale and her dinosaur friends (daily, 10am-5.50pm); and the British Museum (be sure to see the Rosetta Stone and the Egyptian mummies: daily, 10am-5pm). Alternatively if you are after the classics, don’t miss George Stubb’s Whistlejacket, Vincent Van Gogh’s Sunflowers and all of the Leonardo’s at the National Gallery (daily 10am-6pm).
See a Show – there can be few places better in the world to see a stage show, than in London’s West End. The most popular sell out early on, so if you have your heart set on a particular show be sure to book in advance online. If you more relaxed about what you see, the TKTS booth in Leicester Square offers half-price and discounted theatre tickets, and many theatres sell hugely discounted tickets if they have any left on the day of a show. My top choices are The Lion King and Phantom of the Opera for musicals, and The Mousetrap – the world’s longest running play – and War Horse for stage shows.
Walk in the Park – London is the greenest city in Europe thanks to its many parks and green spaces. They all have a different style and character, and many have lovely cafes where you can pick up a coffee or an ice cream to enjoy on your walk. For the London first timer, I recommend St James’ Park for its views of Buckingham Palace and the London Eye, and Hyde Park for its variety and expanse.
WHERE TO EAT
There are so many great places to eat in London that it would be impossible to list them all here, but here are a few of my favourites close to the main tourist routes. Check out my foodie’s guide to London for lots more recommendations.
St Martin’s Crypt – in the 18th century crypt of St Martin’s in the Field this award winning café offers great, but inexpensive, food mere steps away from Trafalgar Square.
Pizza Pilgrims – several locations across the city, serves very reasonably priced authentic Neapolitan pizza – wash it down with one the house wines.
Borough Market – not far along the river from Tower Bridge, this street food market is a very popular eating spot. Hunt out Paedella for the best fresh pasta.
Comptoir Libanais – Lebanese with several locations across London, one close to all the museums in South Kensington. The cheese sambusek are my favourite!
Pastaio – I adore pasta, and this is one of the best in London. Great value and conveniently located for lunch close to the National Gallery.
The Tandoor Chop House – seriously delicious northern Indian tandoor cuisine one street back from Trafalgar Square.
London Pubs – famous the world over, a traditional London pub is as iconic as Big Ben and the red buses. Long summer evenings chatting with friends in a fairy-light strewn beer garden, or a cosy afternoon with a book and a large glass of wine by a roaring fire on a rainy day.
You can’t beat Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese (Monday-Saturday, 12-11pm) for its literary history, although come for a drink and skip the fairly average pub food. The beautifully restored Princess of Prussia (Monday-Saturday, 11am – 11.30pm) is a great spot for a slice of London pub history and a post-Tower of London hearty lunch. If you are in London longer than a few days, I would really recommend a trip out to Barnes to walk along the Thames Path before rewarding yourself with a delicious lunch at The White Hart (Monday-Saturday, 11am-11pm; Sunday, 12-11pm).
Have a look at my guide to London’s pubs and bars for even more suggestions.
WHERE TO STAY
My Bloomsbury – real focus on sustainability with in room recycling and environmentally friendly toiletries. Rooms are sleek and minimal, but very elegant. I love the sweet touch of offering complimentary Penguin classics to guests.
Z Hotel – this chain of affordable boutique hotels across London is a bit of a hidden gem! I’d recommend the Covent Garden location as it is walking distance to many of the top sights. Rooms are small but they offer free cheese and wine in the evening…
Premier Inn County Hall – basic rooms in a hotel chain, but comfortable beds and the location can’t be beaten for the price.
Motel One Tower Hill – Close to Tower Bridge and the Crown Jewels, this super stylish hotel is surprisingly affordable.
The Bloomsbury Hotel – historic 1920s style hotel in a great location close to the British Museum and the theatres of the West End.
I hope that this post helps you plan your London adventure. If you want inspiration for more things to do in London to really get under the city’s skin, check out my London Local’s series.
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