In 122AD, the Roman Emperor Hadrian ordered the construction of an 84 mile defensive wall between the River Tyne on the east coast of England, to the Solway estuary in the west. It took six years to build the wall, and its forts and milecastles were occupied by military forces until the Romans left Britain three hundred years later. Eat your heart out Donald Trump.
Hadrian’s reason for building the wall remains hotly debated (in the Faraway Dispatches family at least…). Was it to keep the ferocious Scots out? Or the English (who would obviously prefer to be north of the border) in?
There is now a path running the entire length of the wall – the first National Trail to become a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I have spent many, many happy hours walking along the Wall – especially the section to the west of Housesteads, which is one of my favourite places anywhere in the world. There are few walks better for blowing away the cobwebs and feeling rejuvenated by a bit of wild nature.
This is therefore my complete guide to walking the Wall – either all of it or just part of it. There are suggestions for where to stay, where to eat and which routes to take.
Finally, I shouldn’t have to say this, but… please don’t walk on the wall! It has stood for two thousand years, let’s ensure it is able to stand for another two thousand.
Don’t Miss
Millenia of history – walk alongside the 2ndC wall, northern Europe’s largest remaining Roman monument. Forts, milecastle and museums abound. If you really want to make the most of the museums, be sure to factor extra time into your itinerary.
Wild landscapes – there are few parts of England more beautiful and dramatic than the wild scenery of the border country. It is about as remote as you can find in England. The section around Steel Rigg is one of my favourite places in Northumberland.
Great pub grub – my favourite is the Twice Brewed Inn at Bardon Mill, but a warm hearty meal in any of the pubs along the way will be a welcome sight at the end of a day’s walking. Consider booking ahead in the summer months as they fill up fast.
Key Facts
Start/End Bowness/Newcastle
Distance 84 miles/135km
Highest Point 345 m (Whinshields Crags)
Time 6-7 days (roughly 12 miles per day)
When Given how good the path is, you can do this walk at any time of year. But, with the unpredictability of the northern weather, I recommend March to October as the best time to walk. You will still get a mixture of all weathers, but it should (mostly) be drier and slightly warmer!
Difficulty Easy-Moderate, clear path but a fair amount of up and down in the middle.
GETTING THERE
Newcastle International Airport is the closest to Hadrian’s Wall – and very close to the start if you walk east to west. Newcastle has direct flights daily to London, and a number of European cities.
Newcastle and Carlisle are also well served by national rail and bus services. Northern Rail runs the “Tyne Valley” trainline, which stops at Newcastle, Corbridge, Hexham and Haltwhistle – the most convenient stops along Hadrian’s Wall. The train also connects with the AD122 Hadrian’s Wall Bus.
From Newcastle Central Station and Newcastle Airport, the Metro (Newcastle’s underground train system) will take you directly to the official start of the Hadrian’s Wall Walk. Catch the Metro to Wallsend (you may need to change at Monument), and walk the one minute to the Segendum Roman Fort and Museum.
The aptly named AD122 bus is the main route serving Hadrian’s Wall. It runs between Good Friday (March/April: date changes each year) and 1 October.
If you have your own vehicle, the A69 between Newcastle and Carlisle runs parallel to the path – although thankfully not right alongside! It is about 2-5 miles south.
HOW FIT DO I NEED TO BE?
Anyone who is reasonably fit can complete the Hadrian’s Wall walk. The nature of the path changes as it crosses the country, ranging between an easy to a moderate walk. Expect dramatic moorland to give way to gentle rolling fields. There is a tarmac section early on, coming out of Newcastle. Some sections are steep, and will get the lungs and glutes working. But none last long and the steepest sections have stone steps. The ever changing weather is most likely to be your greatest challenge.
Of the 16 National Trails in England and Wales, this is probably the easiest. It is also possible to do it in comfort, as there are lovely B&Bs along the way. As it is so well waymarked, and not too strenuous, it would be a great introduction to long distance walking.
WHICH ROUTE?
Most people walk east to west – this was the direction the wall was built in and the landscape gets more dramatic as you walk – but you can go either way. There are advantages and disadvantages to both.
If you walk west you will finish up in the pretty village of Bowness-on-Solway, rather than schlepping through Newcastle’s outskirts on your last day.
However, the prevailing wind is also from the west so you will be walking into it – although for the most part you are unlikely to notice this.
Perhaps a bigger consideration is that walking east to west, all of the first day’s walking is on tarmac. Even if you are used to long distance walking, 15 miles of tarmac will give your legs quite a pounding. If you think this will cause you problems for the rest of the week, you should consider doing the walk from west to east.
On balance, I would recommend east to west as I think finishing up somewhere so pretty is the better option, and I would rather get the tarmac bits over and done with early on!
PLANNING YOUR ROUTE
The National Trail website has a really fantastic planning tool which allows you to break down sections by mileage and elevation to plot a route that suits your walking preferences.
If you don’t fancy planning your own route, I have three suggested itineraries below – one for the full walk, one for the best bits and finally a one day walk.
The Full Shebang – 6 Days
There are multiple ways you can split up the 84 miles, and can tailor the trip to your own fitness and the areas you most want to see. Most people do it over the course of a week, but more regular distance walkers may want to cover the ground in 5 days. Or, if you are my mad brother-in-law, you can run it in under 24 hours…
My suggested itinerary below should suit most with good fitness, dividing the days between 12 and 17 miles. If 17 miles sounds daunting, it is the easiest day of walking and almost entirely flat.
Day 1: Wallsend – Heddon-on-the-Wall (13 miles)
Day 2: Heddon-on-the-Wall – Chollerford (15 miles)
Day 3: Chollerford – Steel Rigg (12.5 miles)
Day 4: Steel Rigg – Walton (14.5 miles)
Day 5: Walton – Carlisle (12 miles)
Day 6: Carlisle – Bowness-on-Solway (17 miles)
The Best Bits – 3 Days
So. I am just going to say it. Neither end of the Hadrian’s Wall Path is particularly exciting, and the wall doesn’t even still exist for much of it… it was dismantled to build the Military Road. The middle bit is the real gem, with unbeatable views and more interesting walking. So, unless you are looking to “complete” the length of Hadrian’s Wall, I actually recommend just walking the best bits and skipping both ends.
Day 1: Corbridge – Chollerford (10 miles)
Day 2: Collerford – Once Brewed (12 miles)
Day 3: Once Brewed – Gilsand (9 miles)
A Snapshot – 1 Day
If you are short on time, or don’t fancy a multi-day hike, you should head to Housesteads and the section towards Steel Rigg. I think this is the most dramatic and interesting stretch of the wall. This is one of my favourite walks in the North East.
If you start and finish at The Sill, it is about a three hour there-and-back along the wall.
Alternatively, you can make a circular route, and walk back just north of the wall through farming land. You can find a map of this walk here, although I actually recommend starting and finishing at The Sill. There is a visitors centre, pub and café.
WHAT TO SEE ALONG THE WAY
Segedunum Roman Fort – at the very start of the walk in Wallsend, this is the most completely excavated Roman fort on the Wall. You can see barrack blocks, stables, the commander’s house and a bathhouse. Adult tickets are £5.25.
Chesters Roman Fort – one of the best-preserved Roman forts in Britain, there are well preserved baths and a steam room, and officers’ quarters. There are also a wide range of Toman artifacts in the Museum. Adult tickets are £9.90.
Housesteads Fort – this the best preserved Roman Fort in England, and the foundations include a hospital, barracks and even flushable toilets. Known to the Romans as Vercovicium, it was built between 122-132AD. Entry is £7. Just to the west of Housesteads is the only section of the wall you are allowed to walk on – the rest is a scheduled ancient monument. Adult tickets are £9.90.
Birdoswald Roman Fort – along the longest intact section of the wall, it includes Hadrian’s Wall’s best-preserved gate! Adult tickets are £9.90.
Vindolanda – on the other side of the Military Road to the Wall, this museum gives visitors a fascinating glimpse into everyday life in the Roman garrison town. The excavated site also includes parts of the fort and town. Entry to the site and the museum is £12.60, but you can buy tickets to just do one or the other.
Crag Lough – large lake just before you reach Sycamore Gap. The views are gorgeous, and you often find climbers scaling the cliffs below.
Sycamore Gap – in a natural dip in the wall and landscape a beautiful sycamore tree stood for over 300 years. Unbelievably, in September 2023 in a staggering act of pointless vandalism, someone cut it down in the middle of the night. Investigations are ongoing and the National Trust – who manage the site – are deciding what to put in its place to honour this beautiful old friend of Northumberland. Before it’s destruction, it was one of the most photographed spots in the North East. For me, and many others, it was an iconic symbol of home and its mindless destruction was heartbreaking and incomprehensible. Made famous in the 1994 film Robin Hood Prince of Thieves, it became a celebrated landmark, even being voted “Britain’s Favourite Tree”. If you haven’t seen the film, you are missing out on what I think is Alan Rickman’s greatest performance… it also features an over-earnest Kevin Costner sporting a staggeringly terrible British accent. Thousands of people enjoyed visiting the tree every year on their Hadrian’s Wall walks, and I thought it would be as much a part of future generations of my family life, as it was in my childhood. I wrote a short piece about what this tree means to my family, and the wider North East – you can read it here. Do take a moment to remember this majestic tree on your hike, and hopefully whatever comes in its place grows to be just as beautiful.
The Sill – otherwise known as the National Landscape Discovery Centre, this great visitor’s centre has a permanent, free, exhibition on the natural landscape, as well as The Stell, a temporary exhibition space featuring a rolling programme that you can view on their website.
WHERE TO SLEEP
This is a relatively remote bit of England, so accommodation can be limited. You will want to book as close to the wall as possible – after a day of hiking, a few extra miles to your bed for the night will not be welcome. The best options book up quickly, so you should try to book ahead – especially in the summer months.
B&Bs
Most Bed and Breakfasts will offer a large, fried English breakfast as part of their room rate. Although staying in B&B’s can seem pricey, getting a great breakfast to fuel you on your way makes it my preferred option!
Twice Brewed Inn – small, cosy pub with very comfortable beds! It is also a great dinner or lunch spot (see below).
Chesters Bridge B&B – comfortable, welcoming B&B with good sized rooms. Friendly owners and great breakfast.
Brookside Villa B&B — clean and modern, they serve a great full English!
Low Rigg Farm – reasonably priced rooms on a working farm.
BUNKHOUSES/CAMPING
It is illegal to wild camp in England or Wales (Scotland does permit it), but there are plenty of official campsites along the route. A number of the bunkhouse below offer camping, and you can find more suggestions here.
Houghton North Farm – bunk house with some private rooms. Clean, spacious rooms and friendly staff.
The Sill – YHA hostel at the interesting visitors centre. This is some of the best value accommodation anywhere along the Wall.
Winshields Farm – very friendly and welcoming owners, who are really knowledgeable about the area. Spacious rooms in the bunkhouse, and good camping pitches. The Farm is only a short walk from the Wall.
Greencarts Farm – so close to the Wall it is harder to get a better location! The camping barn sleeps up to 11, and there two camping fields.
Florries on the Wall – Walton bunkhouse. Spotlessly clean and a good breakfast.
WHAT TO EAT
Firstly, remember that you will be burning more calories than normal so be sure to eat generously. Total permission to ditch the diet!
Most of the hostels and bunk houses have communal kitchens so you could save a bit of money by self-catering some meals. There are a few village shops and small supermarkets in villages along the way, but the choices will be fairly basic and limited.
Pubs in the UK generally serve food between 12pm-3pm, before restarting for dinner service around 5pm. Many accommodation options will provide a packed lunch, if you ask the night before.
If you are looking for places to eat in Newcastle at the start or end of your walk, my foodie’s guide will be coming soon!
Riverside Tearooms – sweet little café in Chollerford. Great cakes and a lovely place for breakfast or lunch.
Errington Arms – lovely coffee shop with baked treats and light lunches north of Corbridge. On a warm day there is outside seating.
Milescastle Inn – cosy lunch or dinner spot with typical pub menu, right by the wall. The home cooked pies are great on a cold day.
Once Brewed Bakehouse – the lovely café at the Sill. Perfect if you fancy something a bit healthier to offset all of the heart pub meals! Try and get a seat by the window as the views over the National Park are glorious.
Twice Brewed Inn – this cosy pub is a good spot for a drink and plate of cheesy chips! As the name suggests, the area has a rich tradition of brewing – not many places can boast a two thousand year old brewing heritage! Although wine was preferred by the Roman elites, beer was an everyday staple for the centurions who patrolled the Wall. If you visit Vindolanda, look out for the tablet making a heartfelt request for more beer to be delivered to the thirsty troops! Ale is still brewed on site, in a new purpose-built eco-micro-brewery using water from Twice Brewed’s own well. Tours are offered for £10 – this includes a tasting session and a beer to take home so is remarkably good value.
House of Meg – small café in Gilsland, popular with hikers and cyclists. Delicious food (have the peppermint slice!) at reasonable prices.
WHAT TO PACK
Although the summer weather is broadly mild, it is still very changeable. You should come prepared to walk in blazing sunshine or driving rain no matter when you do the walk!
Map – the route is well marked, and the path easy to follow. But as ever make sure that you have a map of the route with you. It will come as no surprise that the weather in the far north of England is very changeable. You will want to ensure you have a map – and the confidence to rely on it – if the weather closes in. We are big fans of the amazing Ordnance Survey Maps, and more recently, the OS App. For the Hadrian’s Wall Path, you will need OL43 (Haltwhistle and Hexham); Explorer 315 (Carlisle); and Explorer 316 (Newcastle).
If you are also looking for a guidebook, you can’t beat the Trailblazer Hadrian’s Wall Path. Perfectly petite for carrying in your rucksack, it has lovely hand drawn maps.
Baggage Transfer
There are a number of companies that offer a baggage transport service along Hadrian’s Wall, collecting and dropping your baggage at your accommodation each day. This is great if you don’t want to carry all of your stuff, or if you have the rest of your luggage from your trip. They are very affordable, and make the logistics much easier. Unless you love discomfort as much as The Husband, I would really recommend using these services to increase your enjoyment of the walk.
Check out Hadrian’s Haul – I think they deserve credit for their name alone… They operate between February and October. Prices start from £7 per bag a day.
Sturdy – worn in! – walking shoes or boots – the path is smooth enough that walking shoes or trail shoes could be worn instead of boots if you prefer a lighter shoe. There will be plenty of mud though, so you will want them to be waterproof.
Rucksack – if you use a baggage transfer service, you don’t need anything too large. But given the changeable weather, I suggest taking dry bags or a waterproof cover. I really love my Osprey Tempest 20 pack – designed specifically for women – for day hikes.
Water bladder – the easiest way to carry enough water for a day’s hike. I love the magnetic clip my Osprey rucksack comes with to hold the drinking tube in place on my chest strap. It is in no way a necessity, but I couldn’t do without the ease now!
Waterproof jacket and trousers – I love my Rab Kangri GTX, but it is a pricey option. You don’t need to spend lots, but you will want something that can withstand heavy downpours. I am not usually a fan of waterproof trousers (I prefer to just walk in leggings and they dry quickly) but in case of a full day walking in the rain you will want to keep your legs warm.
Warmer tops – thin fleeces or a light down jacket are best as you can you layer them.
Comfy socks – choose some designed for walking – you don’t want the seams to rub your feet. I really like the Bridgedale socks, and – touch wood – have not had a problem with blisters with them.
Blister plasters – hopefully you won’t need any, but always best to have them just in case!
Sunscreen – the walk is very exposed, so you will want sunscreen for the one hot day of the northern summer… (I joke… it’s more like two days).
Walking poles – great for taking the pressure of your knees, particularly on a multiday hike. They are particularly good for the middle section, where there is a lot of up and down.
Snacks – aka, morale for when it gets wet and windy (again).
Hopefully this guide has persuaded you to add Hadrian’s Wall to your bucket list – let me know in the comments if you give the walk a go. Check out my other hiking guides if you are looking for more adventure inspiration.
TeacherTraveler says
Excellent article! As an American, I could do without the Donald Trump comment though. It makes your behavior seem rather childish rather the knowledgeable person you are about hiking Hadrian’s Wall. I have wanted to hike this wall for years and will use this article as a guide. 83 countries and counting!! 🙂
@farawaydispatches says
83 countries! Gosh, you must have been to some wonderful places! I hope you manage to make it to hike Hadrian’s Wall sometime – it is a wonderful part of the UK, and the landscapes are gorgeous! I think perhaps on Trump it is just a wee bit of cultural difference – us Brits like to turn everything into a joke, and absolutely nothing more so than politics! Sadly I can’t claim originality on this one – it has been a very popular joke in the North East of England for several years now!