Colourful beach huts. Soft serve ice cream. Brightly coloured buckets and spades. Donkey rides on the beach. Sandy toes and salty chips.
Before international travel was as accessible, a summer holiday in an English seaside resort was a tradition enjoyed by generations of British families. Originally, this was more about health than leisure. Seawater was thought to be healing, and in the 18thC wealthy families would head to the coast to cure all manner of aliments. Spa towns began to rise in prominence as various physicians extolled the virtues of “taking the waters”. Over time, theatres, restaurants and tourist attractions began to open along the coast to entertain visitors between their bathing sessions. As train travel became affordable to the masses in the late 18thC, more and more families began flocking to coastal resorts, and the great British summer seaside holiday was born.
The east Yorkshire seaside town of Scarborough is the oldest of these seaside resorts, having attracted visitors to its mineral springs since the early 17thC. The Victorians knew it as the “Queen of the Watering Places”, but its real heyday came in the years just after WWII when it was the destination of choice for working class families across the Midlands.
GETTING THERE
Scarborough is on the Yorkshire coast and just on the border of the North York Moors National Park. Scarborough is around a 90-minute drive from York city centre, or 45 minutes from the popular neighbouring town of Whitby.
Scarborough is well served by both buses and trains. Yorkshire Coastliner operates bus services from Leeds and York, as well as the neighbouring coastal towns. Scarborough also has a train station, with direct trains to York and easy onward connections to London, Edinburgh and the rest of Britain. The train from York takes 51 minutes. From London, the journey to Scarborough, with a change in York, will take around three hours.
GETTING AROUND
Scarborough is a very walkable town, with all the main attractions clustered close to the seafront around South Bay. The cliffs from the seafront to the town are steep, with steps and switch back paths in several places. East Yorkshire Buses operate services around the town, and all have full wheelchair-accessibility.
Be sure to take at least one ride on the Victorian cliff railways. Of the five cliff lifts that were built, only two are now open to the public – the Central Tramway and Scarborough Spa’s cliff lift. The Central Tramway has level access both on and off the carriages at the top and bottom stations, with both carriages fully wheelchair accessible. Built-in 1881, it is one of the oldest still in operation in the UK.
THINGS TO DO
Get the sand between your toes! – given Scarborough’s fame as the original British seaside destination, you cannot visit and avoid the beach! The wide sandy South Bay dominates the town, and is home to the arcades, ice cream parlours, shops, and donkey rides on the beach. Dogs are not allowed on the beach from the 1st May to 30th September, but are welcome the rest of the year.
For a quieter and more rugged seaside escape, head down the coast to Sandsend Beach. If surfing is your thing, this is the place to come.
Enjoy a concert at Scarborough Spa – visitors first flocked to Scarborough in the 18thC to “take the waters”, and the Scarborough Spa was first built around the source of the town’s spa waters. You can visit the cafés, terraces and gorgeous black and white chequered bandstand on the seafront. The Spa is now a concert space, including performances from The Spa Orchestra. At over 110 years old it’s the final remaining professional seaside orchestra, and makes for a classic Victorian seaside vibe. Find the schedule of upcoming events online.
The Rotunda Museum – opened in 1829, this is one of the first purpose built museums in the world. The circular building was designed to house a Firenze showcasing the geology of the local coastline. The Rotunda is a tribute to the work of William Smith, “Father of English Geology”. He was responsible for one of the world’s first geological maps. The museum houses over 8000 fossils from the Jurassic period. Adult tickets cost £3, and give you annual entry to both the Rotunda and the Scarborough Art Gallery. Under 18s are free.
Find some peace in the Gardens – there are a number of lovely green spaces on the cliffs that run down to South Bay, making for a tranquil escape from the activity of the seafront. Shuttleworth Gardens at the far south end of the promenade, and the South Cliff Italian Gardens are the top picks.
Try your luck at the arcades – if you haven’t been to a British seaside town before, the 2p slot machines are probably a bit of a perplexing addition of lightweight gambling to this guide! It is a simple concept. Games cost a 2p piece to play, and as you and others play, the 2p pieces pile up on a shelf in the machine. The aim is to get your 2p to land in such a way that it knocks a whole pile of 2p coins off the shelf for you to collect. I doubt anyone has ever won more than £1 – and most people substantially less than that! They have been a feature of arcades at the British seaside since the 1960s, and have somehow become one of the iconic images of the traditional British seaside holiday.
Scarborough Castle – dominating the hillside above the town are the ruins of Scarborough Castle. The original castle dates from the 12thC when King Henry II’s Great Tower was a Royal Palace and a northern stronghold. Edward I used the castle as his royal court and Richard III was the last king to stay in 1484 whilst raising an army to defeat Henry Tudor (later King Henry VII). During the Tudor period the castle was frequently under siege, and was the site of several Civil War battles in the 17thC. Adult tickets are £8.50, and English Heritage members visit for free.
OUTDOOR ESCAPES
Flamborough Head – one of the most gorgeous sections along the Yorkshire coast, this rugged and windswept stretch is famous for the its white chalk cliffs. The 7 mile/11.3km circular, starting from the village of Flamborough, takes you around the dramatic headland with fantastic sea views. The route is fairly straightforward on well-worn grassy tracks, with only a few steeper sections. In the summer months be sure to look out for the adorable puffins which nest in the 30m cliffs. You will also likely spot lots of seals chilling on the rocks if you are here at low tide. The route takes you through the Flamborough Cliffs Nature Reserve, and passes the Flamborough Head Lighthouse. Built in 1806, the lighthouse is still in use and tours can be organised in advance. The lighthouse is roughly halfway through the walk and is a great place to stop for a cup of tea or an ice cream. If you want to have a picnic on the beach at low tide, head down the 200 (uneven and steep) steps below the lighthouse. The Flamborough Heads are very exposed to the elements, and wind – and often rain – is rarely in short supply in this part of England. Make sure you have a waterproof – even in summer! It gets especially windy near the lighthouse, so if you plan to stop and sit for a while you will want layers.
Castle Headland – for a shorter, more urban leg stretch, the headland around Scarborough Castle is a good 1.75 mile/2.8km circular. There are some steep steps to take you up to viewpoints, which look out over the beach and town. A quick detour from the route will take you to St Mary’s Church, where Anne Bronte is buried.
WHERE TO EAT
Papa’s Fish Bar – this seafront fish bar has been voted the best in the UK. If you have read my foodie guide to Edinburgh, you will know I have personally awarded that particular prize to Alba D’Oro, but even I have to admit… the chips here are probably the best I have ever eaten.
Bloom Coffee Bakery – superb gooey, indulgent treats (try the brownies, they are incredible!) and excellent coffee. What more can you want?!
Holy Cow – some of the best gelato I’ve had. Not too sweet, but very well flavoured and smooth. All manner of customisation, and waffles available for surprisingly affordable prices.
Harbour Bar – this family run ice cream parlour has been making and selling its own ice cream since 1945, and it is gloriously retro. Think yellow formica tables and red leather stools, cone-shaped neon signs and 1950s Horlicks adverts.
GEO – cocktail bar and bistro in a former chapel on the harbour front.
WHERE TO STAY
The Bike and Boot – Design hotel in a Victorian terrace, filled with bright colours and stripped back wooden floors. Great location, an easy 15 minute walk to the main stretch of shops and cafes along South Bay. Dogs welcome (£15 per night).
Ox Pasture Hall – Country house hotel in an old farmhouse with an English cottage vibe. Gorgeous gardens and excellent food. Just outside Scarborough (about 3 miles and a ten minutes drive to the beach), on the edge of North York Moors National Park.
The Farrier – Located between Scarborough and Filey, in the village of Cayton. Four boutique, equestrian themed rooms attached to an excellent restaurant.
Have a look at my other guides to the UK for planning your British Isles trip – especially the North East, just a short trip up the coast from Scarborough.
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