There are some places in the world that once you visit, you know you will keep being drawn back to time and time again. For me, the Outer Hebrides – and above all, the Isle of Harris – are one such place. There are few destinations I have fallen quite so head over heels in love with on first sight. Granted, I’d probably recommend sticking to the glorious summer months but the dramatic (and stormy and occasionally bleak!) winters also have their own appeal. The archipelago has some of world’s best beaches – and certainly the UK’s best – a rich Gaelic culture and history, and superb cafes and community run shops to satisfy your stomach’s every whim. These north westerly islands might just be Scotland’s best least visited destination!
Also referred to as the Western Isles, and known as Na h-Eileanan Siar in Gaelic, the Outer Hebrides are a chain of islands sitting around 30 miles off the north western coast of mainland Scotland. From top to bottom, the islands span about 130 miles and are home to just under 27,000 people. Of the string of islands, fifteen are inhabited, with the Isles of Harris and Lewis the biggest, and most populated.
This guide will focus on only two of the Outer Hebridean Islands – the Isles of Lewis and Harris. Slightly confusingly for the first time visitor, they are actually one landmass, but considered two islands divided by the mountains that run from the east to west coast around two thirds of the way down the island. As a single landmass, it is the largest island in Scotland and the third largest in Britain. Despite being a single entity, the two isles are surprisingly distinct – Harris is much more mountainous and rugged, whilst its northern neighbour Lewis is comparatively flat and more windswept.
GETTING THERE
Harris and Lewis are linked to the mainland by CalMac Ferries, who sail the routes between Ullapool and Stornoway, and Uig (northern Skye, not to be confused with Uig in the west of Lewis). There is also an inter-island ferry between Berneray to Harris. You can travel as a foot passenger or with a vehicle, and prices vary depending on route and ticket type. The crossing between Ullapool and Stornoway has a slight fearsome reputation in the winter months, and can often be delayed due to adverse weather conditions. In summer months, booking ahead is essential as services sell out quickly. If you’re planning an island hopping itinerary across the Hebrides, it’s worth checking out the Island Hop 8 combined ticket, which includes all of the ferries you need to get from Oban to Barra, right the way up to Lewis and back to the mainland in Ullapool.
Loganair run daily flights into a Stornoway from Benbecula, Inverness, Manchester, Edinburgh, and Glasgow. Although flights are the much quicker route to the islands, the ferry is often more reliable as flights tend to be more susceptible to delay or cancellation due to bad weather.
GETTING AROUND
Although there is a public bus system, you really need a car to make the most of the isles. If you plan to hire a car, you might want to arrange collection in Stornoway or Tarbert, as you will only need to pay for a cheaper foot passenger ferry ticket.
In the more rural areas, most roads are single track, designed for single file traffic with plenty of passing places. Check out my guide to Skye for tips on driving on the squeezy roads of the Scottish Highlands and Islands.
If you wish to take the bus – and even with a car they can be useful to get to or from the start or finish of a linear walk – timetables are all available online. Prices vary depending on the route, but are inexpensive.
SUNDAYS ON THE ISLES
Some travel articles and guides to the Outer Hebrides might lead you to think you are off to witness a rather romantic, if tough, way of island life unchanged for generations. You will also hear warning tales of how everything – and most of all, fun – is firmly shut on Sundays and how the Church still governs all aspects of life.
As with almost all destinations, the truth is much more diverse and vibrant than these rather one dimensional portraits suggest. Whilst islanders are (understandably) proud of their heritage and the Church continues to be an important part of society, life here goes on just as it would anywhere else in the U.K. And just as anywhere else in the world, there are islanders who go to church and those who do not. There are those who live a more traditional life, and those who embrace all the mod cons. There are super cosy, traditional B&Bs to enjoy, and there are sleek boutique hotels in which to pamper yourself.
That being said, Sundays here are still traditionally family centric and many shops and attractions – but certainly not all – do close for the day. Although this is also common in many rural areas and catholic-majority countries in continental Europe, the Western Isles’ infamous ‘Sunday closure’ has somehow gained mythical status. Travel guides gravely warn that if arriving at the weekend you must stock up at a supermarket in Inverness before heading to the isles to ensure you have something to eat. In reality, whilst most supermarkets will shut, almost all takeaway venues and a number of cafes remain open. Engebrets Filling Station in Stornoway is open 10-4 pm on a Sunday for grocery shopping. Although public buses don’t operate, the ferry terminal and airport are open for business. Just as elsewhere, it is simply worth checking the opening hours of the place you want to visit and planning your days accordingly.
Pay-at-the-pump fuel is available at all times at Campbells in Stornoway, Community Shop, Ravenspoint, and Harris Community Shop in Leverburgh.
Of course, the main attractions of Harris and Lewis never shut – even on a Sunday those glorious beaches and rugged landscapes are just waiting to be explored!
COMMUNITY SHOPS AND HONESTY BOXES
Whilst community shops and honesty boxes can be found around the UK, and elsewhere, on the isles of Harris and Lewis they are an essential part of island life. In addition to offering a range of groceries, community shops also serve as a community hub, sharing news and information, local events, job advertisements and other services. You can find the addresses and opening hours of all the isles’ community stores in this useful leaflet from Visit Outer Hebrides.
As you drive around the isles you will spot many tall painted wooden boxes. Known as honesty boxes, they usually offer a small range of homemade or grown produce, baked treats or crafts. As the name suggests, the boxes are unattended and you leave payment in a little locked box. Some have prices advertised, others will ask you to pay what you can. It must be something in the air, because the people of Harris and Lewis seem to be incredible bakers! Without fail, we have always had amazing treats from these boxes so you should definitely seek them out!
HOW DO I PRONOUNCE THAT?!
As you move about the Western Isles you will notice that all road signs are in two languages. A sister language of Irish Gaelic and Manx Gaelic, Scots Gaelic (Gàidhlig) is still spoken across the islands, most concentrated in northern Lewis.
Gaelic was first introduced to Scotland in about 500 AD, from Ireland and for the following five or six hundred years Gaelic expanded across much of Scotland. Gaelic never gained much of a hold in south eastern Scotland, where Scots-English, spoken by the Angles who once dominated this part of Scotland, was the main language. From the 13thC Gaelic began to lose its competition with this variant of Northumbrian Old English, and the use of Gaelic retreated further and further into the Highlands. By 1755, Gaelic speakers numbered only 23% of the Scottish population, which had shrunk by 1901 to 4.5% and 100 years later to 1.2%. Today about 60,000 people speak it, most of them in the Western Isles.
Over the last few decades, the use and preservation of the Gaelic language has become intricately bound up in discussions about Scotland’s identity. The causes for Gaelic’s decline are complex. But the historical dominance of central Scotland, and the city of Edinburgh in particular, over the political and economic development of Scotland was a key factor. These areas were never Gaelic-speaking, and the dominance of English grew even more significant after James VI moved his court to London in 1603 after inheriting the English crown. This coincided with a period in which much of Highland culture was suppressed, as the crown sought to put down the aftermath of the 1745 Rebellion (you can read more about how Sir Walter Scott re-established parts of the Highland culture as central to Scottish identity in my guide to the Scottish borders).
More recently, Gaelic has been recognised as an important part of the culture and heritage of large areas of Scotland and efforts have sought to reverse its decline. The Scottish Parliament’s Gaelic Language Act 2005, afforded the language a degree of official recognition, and Gaelic has been adopted as the primary language of Comhairle nan Eilean Siar, or the Western Isles Council.
A slightly quirky final fact to prove that language is always intricately bound up with culture and place… there are over forty different words in Gaelic for some variant of the word ‘bog’. The English word ‘bog’ itself comes from Gaelic!
THE TOWNS
STORNOWAY
The principal settlement on the Isle of Lewis, and the biggest on the island. Known as Steòrnabhagh in Gaelic, the town gets its name from ‘Sjornavagr’ – the Old Norse for ‘steering bay’. The harbour and the grounds of Lews Castle, both offer lovely settings for a short walk and there are a number of sweet cafes and independent shops to explore.
The Museum Nan Eilean in Lews Castle is well worth a visit, and is home to six of the famous Lewis Chessmen, after they were uncovered in Uig on the west coast in the 19th century (Daily except Sunday, 1pm-4pm. Free). These walrus ivory chess pieces constitute one of the only remaining complete, surviving medieval chess sets in the world and are thought to be Viking in origin. There is also a holiday apartment in the castle, if you fancy some rather grand holiday accommodation!
If you visit Stornoway in mid-July, be sure to buy tickets for the HebCelt Festival. This annual Celtic music festival attracts acts and visitors from across Scotland and further afield
TARBERT
Tarbert is the principal settlement on the Isle of Harris and was my favourite little town on the islands. With the range of local crafts and produce on sale, it felt a hub of Hebridean culture. There are many coastal villages in Scotland that share the name Tarbert – almost all of which sit in a narrow strip of land where two lochs join. Historians believe that when the Vikings landed here around the 9thC, they pulled their longboats ashore and dragged then across the narrow strip of land and into the West Loch to avoid sailing all the way around the Sound of Harris. The setting is dramatic, between Tarbert the two ‘islands’ of North and South Harris and framed by the peaks of Harris.
ISLAND DISTILLERY
Whilst Scotland might be better known for its whisky, the gin distillery on the Isle of Harris produces one of my absolute favourite drinks. Opened in 2015, the Isle of Harris Distillery makes a super gin flavoured with hand-harvested, local sugar kelp. It also doesn’t hurt that the sea green, curved bottles are impossibly aesthetic. Between March and October, tours are offered twice a day Monday-Thursday, and once a day on Fridays. (Adult £15).
If you are in the market for more Hebridean treats to take home with you, it is also worth checking out the Essence of Harris outlet in Tarbert. This family run busines produces luxury candles and toiletries inspired by the scents and landscapes of the Hebrides. Uig Lodge and the Stornoway Smokehouse also sell their delicious local produce online.
EXPLORE THE WESTERN ISLES’ HISTORY
CALLANISH STANDING STONES
Erected more than 5,000 years ago – making them broadly contemporaneous with the Pyramids of Egypt – these standing stones predate their more well known cousins at Stonehenge and were an important place for ritual activity for at least 2,000 years. It is one of the most complete stone circles in Britain. Like their counterparts around the UK, no-one knows exactly how the stones got here, or what they were for. Most commonly it is thought they likely formed some part of worship, but others suggest that it may have been an astronomical observatory.
There are multiple standing stones all across the Isle of Lewis but these at Callanish are the largest grouping. Callanish II, a smaller collection, is only a short drive away if you wish to see more. The Callanish Visitor Centre and standing stones are free to visit.
DUN CARLOWAY BROCH
One of the best preserved Iron Age structures in Scotland. A broch is a defensive site, designed to be used when local inhabitants were under attack. Be sure to take a few layers if you visit – perched atop a mound, it is always windy! The visitor centre is open during summer months only. (Free).
GEARRANNAN BLACKHOUSE VILLAGE
A former crofting village in a very picturesque setting above a lovely bay. The site consists of nine stone blackhouses – long, low houses – with thatched roofs dating back to the late 1800s. Until the late 19thC, these traditional blackhouses were the most common type of dwelling on the isles.
The village was inhabited until the 1970s, when the elderly residents were moved into more modern sheltered housing on the island. There is a small, and fascinating museum, and often a live display of Harris Tweed weaving on an original loom. The restoration of the houses has been cleverly done, and give a real sense of what life would have been like in this traditional Hebridean housing.
Gearrannan Blackhouse Village is one of the most complete crofting villages remaining, and is set in a very picturesque dip which runs down to a small beach. Since 1989 a local community trust, Urras nan Gearrannan (The Garenin Trust), has been restoring each property, to offer visitors a glimpse into a way of life that once sustained the isles population.
Several of the houses have been turned into self catering accommodation and a hostel, for a really historic place to stay. The small café is also worth a stop. (Open daily except Sunday, March-October, 9:30am-5:30pm. Adults £3.90).
LEARN ABOUT PEAT CUTTING
One of the most instantly recognisable traditions of the Outer Hebrides. Peat has been burned for by islanders for hundreds of years to heat their homes. It is cut into slices and laid across the moor using a tool called a tairsgear. The peat bricks are then left to dry out for up to two weeks. Only small sections of the moor are allocated for cutting, with each property on the island having its own allocated peak bank, usually with a generations-old Gaelic name.
ALL THINGS TWEED
The only fabric in the British Isles protected by an Act of Parliament, Harris Tweed is known in Gaelic as An Clo Mor, or ‘The Big Cloth’,. The cloth must be handwoven by an islander, in their home, made from pure, virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides. It has been used for centuries by islanders, and since it was first marketed in London in the mid-1800s by Catherine Murray, Countess of Dunmore, has become one of the most sought after fashion fabrics around the world. If you would like to see the weaving in action, check out this tour to visit a weaver at home.
I recommend the family run Isle of Harris Tweed shop in Tarbert as a good place to pick up your own – they have a range of premade accessories, clothing and blankets in this gorgeous cloth, and will also take orders to make up something bespoke. We had a throw made as a wedding gift to ourselves, and couldn’t love it more!
WHAT TO DO
DRIVE THE GOLDEN ROAD
Running along the south east coast of Harris, from Tarbert to Rodel, this 21 miles/34km stretch of road is known as the Golden Road. It hugs some of the rockiest low level scenery anywhere in Scotland and is beautiful. It is worth pulling into one of the lay-bys or parking areas to explore the small lochs and inlets. Just make sure you never park in a passing place – check out my guide to Skye for more information and tips on driving on Scotland’s single track roads.
Two reasons for the name are given… either it is so beautiful that it deserves to be known as golden… or it was so expensive to build it would have been cheaper to pave with gold!
WILD CAMP
Scotland is the wild camping jewel of the UK! The most beautiful wild camp spot I have ever stayed at (other than maybe a close tie with pitching a tent high above El Capitan in Yoesmite National Park) was on the Isle of Lewis. Wild camping is legal, governed by the Outdoor Access Code to Scotland. The Code sets out the simple steps you must take, but principally asks that you only camp in one place for a single night, that you don’t camp next to your car, in view of houses or beside the road. As ever you should follow the Leave No Trace principals and take all litter away with you. Solid waste should be buried at least 30m away from any water sources.
The weather can change very rapidly in the Outer Hebrides. Pack plenty of layers and a waterproof, and outside the summer months you may want to consider taking storm pegs just in case! In midge season (check out my guide to Skye for more advice on dealing with the scourge of Scottish summers!) camping near the beach may offer enough of a breeze to keep them at bay.
DAY TRIP TO ST KILDA
Lying out in the Atlantic Ocean 41 miles off the west coast of Benbecula, the archipelago of St Kilda is one of the few UNESCO World Heritage Sites with ‘dual’ status for both its the natural and cultural significance. There are four main islands – Hirta, Dùn, Soay and Boreray – as well as numerous sea stacks. The archipelago was originally settled by humans between four and five thousand years ago, and its distance from the rest of the Outer Hebrides and the mainland saw the development of a self-sufficient island life, that remained broadly unchanged until the islands were eventually abandoned in 1930. Nowadays, the only inhabitants are the National Trust for Scotland wardens and a few military personal manning a radar station.
In addition to offering a glimpse of a traditional island life, St Kilda is also home to Europe’s largest colony of seabirds including gannets and puffins, who crowd onto the sea stacks and dramatic cliffs along the coastline. You will want to pack plenty of layers and a waterproof, and some sturdy walking boots to explore the islands many trails and dramatic coastline.
It takes around 2.5 hours to sail to St Kilda, and given the wild location can be a fairly choppy ride on a stormy day! Tours usually run from mid-April to mid-September, and most boat operators will require you to book well in advance. You are likely to be asked to be available on at least two days, just in case a trip has to be cancelled due to adverse weather conditions. There are two companies operating from Leverburgh on Harris, Kilda Cruises and Sea Harris (it is also possible to take a trip from Stein on Skye with Go St Kilda, although the sailing time is a much longer 4 hours). (Cruises cost between £220 (Sea Harris) and £245 (Kilda Cruises) and run six days a week, weather permitting).
Most visits are via a boat day trip – with around 2,500 adventurous souls making the trip each year – but there is a tiny short-stay campsite on the largest island of Hirta, able to accommodate up to six people if you want to extend your stay.Email the St Kilda National Trust team to check availability and book. The camp site costs £20 per night, payable directly to the warden on St Kilda.
GET OUDOORS
The natural habitats of Harris and Lewis are surely their greatest treasures and one of the main draws for visitors to the isles, and there is some wonderful walking and wild swimming to be found. Check out my full guide to hiking and swimming Harris and Lewis for more ideas. And as ever, the wonderful Walk Highlands also has numerous suggestions, route maps and ideas for great days out on the hills.
THE BEACHES
Glittering. Azure. Turquoise. Crystal clear. Aquamarine. It is almost impossible to do justice to the beauty of Harris and Lewis’ coastline – either in words or photos. You simply have to see it for yourself. And unlike their more celebrated counterparts in the Caribbean or Thailand, in the Outer Hebrides you will often have these spectacular beaches all to yourself.
Many of the beaches are fringed by machair – a fertile coastal grassland, which in the summer is carpeted in wildflowers. This unique habitat is found exclusively on the Hebrides and north west Scotland. It is formed when sand blows onto peat, and tiny fragments of seashells add calcium to the acidic soils, resulting in lush fertile strips around the coastline.
There is a beautiful beach around most corners on the western side of the islands, especially on Harris, but my absolute top picks are Luskentyre, Uig and the sea stacks at Magnersta.
GET OUT ONTO THE WATER
If you want to get a bit more up close and personal with the Hebridean sea life, there are multiple options for sea kayaking trips. The Isle of Harris in particular is an incredible place for kayaking – crystal clear waters, white sandy beaches and an abundance of wildlife. One very memorable sunny day, we hired kayaks to take a trip over to Taransay, an uninhabited island just off the west coast of Harris. British readers might recognise it as the location for the TV series Castaway, which saw a group of thirty-six men, women, and children attempt to build a self sufficient community and live on the island for a year in 2000. We saw countless seals up close, otters and even some jellyfish. The isle of Taransay itself is well worth a visit – the peace and solitude it offers is glorious, with spectacular white sandy beaches and beautiful views back across the water to the peaks of Harris.
On a calm, sunny day the 2 mile/3km kayak over to Taransay was straightforward for me as a fairly inexperienced kayaker, but be aware that this is open, tidal sea and conditions can always change. Booking with one of the islands tour operators will ensure that they can offer you a trip within your own group’s abilities. I recommend checking out Wild Harris – they offer half day (£55 per person) and full day trips £80 per person, with no more than five people per outing.
THE WALKING
Compared to the hiker’s paradise of mainland Scotland, the Outer Hebrides are relatively unknown to many as a walking destination. And yet there are some really wonderful, and superbly uncrowded, routes on offer here. My top picks are the Postman’s Walk between Reinigeadal and Urgha, the walk to Crabhadail beach and the circular route around the Butt of Lewis.
Check out my full guide to hiking and swimming Harris and Lewis for more suggestions for the best beaches to visit and my favourite day hikes.
WHERE TO EAT
We were blown away by the food we had on Harris and Lewis – it wasn’t just good, the islands offered up some of the best produce we have eaten anywhere in the world! If you are self catering, the Tesco and Coop in Stornoway are the largest supermarkets on the Isles. The Leverburgh Coop has the largest selection of every-day essentials on Harris. I would recommend checking out the many independent delis, bakeries, and community shops for much tastier eats.
Uig Sands – my top pick for Harris and Lewis. Fantastic, fresh fixed menu in the most gorgeous setting looking out over Uig Bay. Book a table in advance to avoid disappointment – book online or give them a call. Uig also produce seriously fantastic smoked salmon, which you can order online as a reminder of your Hebridean adventures.
Temple Café and Deli – very friendly, super atmosphere at this little bakery/deli/cafe. You must, must, must come here. Wonderful homemade artisan, deli and bakery produce. Cakes and sandwiches fantastic, and coffee is really excellent. The thick cut ham and pickle bagel was one of the best of my life! The setting is also lovely, in front of a carpet of machair. On Wednesdays it is only traybakes, every other day lunch is served from 12pm. Open Sunday.
Cameron’s Chip Shop – piping hot fish and chips on Stornoway Harbour is almost obligatory on a visit to the Isles! Fresh, non-greasy and utterly satisfying! Open Sunday.
Stornoway Smokehouse – unprepossessing shed near the ferry terminal selling a range of fantastic smoked goods. This is one of the last traditional smokehouses on the island. The lightly smoked scallops were very good and the cheese a great addition to our picnic. Produce can also be ordered online.
Blue Lobster – adorable cafe-cum-shop on the harbour front in Stornoway. Great cakes, and good coffee. The selection of local pottery, candles and soaps is hard to resist.
Loomshed Deli – top contender for best sandwiches I’ve ever eaten! The bread is made with beer from their own craft brewery. Excellent coffee, and a good pre/post Tarbert ferry stop. Small selection of artisan local produce on offer alongside a slection of hot, freshly cooked pies and pastries.
Crust Like That – I had not expected to find the best pizza I have eaten outside of Italy in a small car park just off a road in the middle of the Isle of Lewis… but I did! The Husband even declares it better than Dominoes. This may not sound a compliment, but such a statement has never once been uttered by him in all our travels in Italy! Neapolitan pizza is sold from a converted shipping container in Achmore. The Gaelic Bread – roasted garlic oil and basil – is both wittily named and delish! They frequently sell out so order ahead online earlier in the day for collection, as you really must ensure you don’t miss out!
An Lanntair – get your hipster fill of gin cocktails in jam jars at this great arts centre overlooking Stornoway Harbour. More broadly, this cultural centre also houses a theatre, art gallery, dance studio, cinema and concert venue.
Eat Drink Hebrides Trail – if you are looking for even more inspiration, this free, self-guided tour will take you on a gastronomic journey through the best places to eat and drink across the Isle of Harris.
WHERE TO STAY
Wild Camp! – I am not sure there is anywhere more picturesque in the world to camp than the Outer Hebrides! As ever, whilst I am not including specific wild camp site coordinates here, I would be more than happy to share the coordinates for our favourite camp spots if you want to get in touch directly when you are planning your visit (send me a message on Instagram for the quickest reply). If you prefer a bit more infrastructure whilst camping, Visit Outer Hebrides have a very useful map showing all the official campsites and the public facilities on offer.
Uig Sands Rooms – there can be few places in the world to stay with better views than this! Luxurious, self catering accommodation looking out over the vast expanse of Uig Beach. Part of the excellent Uig Sands Restaurant, there are four rooms all with private patios and small kitchenettes. Dogs are welcome in some rooms with prior arrangement (£15 per night for up to two dogs). All room guests have a table reserved at Uig Sands Restaurant, during its open season.
Hotel Hebrides – very comfortable bed, good spacious bathroom with powerful shower. Room 210 right on the corner of the hotel has super views! There are local design touches around the hotel, with lots of beautiful tweed and local Ishga and Essence of Harris toiletries. Room rates can be pricey in peak season. The hotel is right above the ferry terminal, so can be slightly noisy in the morning but I rather enjoyed watching the early Uig ferry coming in. Food is good, but again a wee bit pricey.
Mangersta Bothy – one of Scotland’s most unique, and dramatic, bothies. Built into the side of the Mangersta cliffs by John and Lorna Norgrove, it is a traditional bothy with no running water, toilet or electricity. There is no cost to stay at the bothy, but guests are asked to make a donation to the Linda Norgrove Foundation, set up in honour of John and Lorna’s daughter Linda, who was killed whilst working in Afghanistan as an aid worker. Requests for bookings are made online.
Hebridean Bothy Pods – these comfortable, well appointed wooden cabins have a lovely setting, overlooking the landscapes of Lewis and well located for exploring both north and south of the Isles. They have been beautifully made by hosts Innes and Mhair, who also have a small photography studio on site. Fabulously close to Crust Like That…!
Carnish Cabins – three modern cabins in the most magical setting almost on top of Uig Bay. The cottages are super cosy whilst making the most of the views with light and airy spaces all focused on windows looking out to the beach.
Check out my full guide to hiking and swimming Harris and Lewis for more ideas on how to make the most of your trip. My other guides to Scotland and the wider UK have lots of inspiration for more British travels. Alternatively, if you are keen to find more ideas for hiking, swimming and outdoors trips, have a look at my adventure series.
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